Visit to Domaine Marc Roy – Tasting the 2022 Vintage

Visiting Domaine Marc Roy is always a treat, and my expectations were high, as I think the 2022 vintage has all the qualities an Alexandrine Roy wine has: hedonism and joyfulness, with an effortless delivery of fruit.

Some history of the Marc Roy estate

Alexandrine is the fourth generation at the domaine, and she is running it with her father Marc, who is still active in the vineyards.

The Roys may only produce village wines, but nevertheless this is one of my favourite estates in Burgundy, and it proves that even serious collectors can find great pleasure from a village-level wine.

Alexandrine made her debut as winemaker with the 2003 vintage, and has over the years refined her wines into some of the most vibrant, delicate, Gevrey village wines made today. I was blown away the first time I tasted her wines, and my tasting each year subsequently confirms my passion for them.

Alexandrine makes four Gevrey village reds and a Marsannay blanc. All are magnificent in their own way. They are pure, airy, and intense, but still quite light-footed and filigreed for the appellation.

Tasting the Marc Roy 2022s

What can I say? Get some. They all have an honest, genuine feel. They are quite classic, yet also somewhat modern, and quite forward, with the airy freshness characteristic of relatively short elevage. You should know these wines – they are very enjoyable.

The ’22s are up there with the better vintages from Domaine Marc Roy. However I cannot say they surpass – or even equal – the magnificent 2019s. They have gorgeous fruit, effortless presentation, and a hedonistic feel and energy from the high percentage of millerandage grapes (shot berries). Did I mention this before? I’m a sucker for millerandage grapes.

The energy, while very fine, is the characteristic which suffers in comparison with the 2019s. The fruit lacks that last little bit of intensity and complexity. The 2022s are so delightful and enjoyable, but are not the epitome of detailed complexity. They are vins de soif, and there is nothing wrong with that!

Domaine Marc Roy Marsannay Blanc 2022

The Marsannay Blanc is showing fine qualities, and is definitely better balanced than the high-alcohol 2019. The Marc Roy plot is in Les Champs Perdrix, located at the southern end of Couchey at the top of the slope. This location ensures fine acidity, hence giving a perfect foundation for the 2022 fruit. It’s a generous white (like many ’22s), but with adequate acidity to balance the generosity. Alexandrine’s whites can be drunk young or with some age.

(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (88p) – Tasted 17/07/2023 from CASK –

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Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2022

The Gevrey Vieilles Vignes is a classic; the 80-year-old vines give a wine that is forward and rather generous. It’s perfectly balanced, but compared to the 2019, perhaps lacks the last core of intensity. Still, it does seduce you with its effortless charm.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 17/07/2023 from CASK –

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Domaine Marc Roy Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice 2022

The La Justice vineyard is located just behind the estate in the large alluvial fan from the Combe de Lavaut. This is a hedonistic, expressive wine with a delightful millerandage character. With fine minerality, and red berries gracing the mid-palate fruit, there is also a nice saline hint, a blessing from the alluvial fan..

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good+ (89-90p) – Tasted 17/07/2023 from CASK –

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