It’s early .. I know .. yet here are some initial impressions on the 2018s from Domaine Morey-Coffinet.
I have had the pleasure of tasting most of the Morey-Coffinet 2018 wines two times already – once in November and once in the middle of February.
Both tasting quite or if you like very early – and in my view too early to either rate the wines or to make a more firm evaluation of the individual wine.
So I will stick to some general comments – and firstly must say that Thibault Morey have produced some very interesting wines in 2018, surprisingly lively and fresh for a so called solar vintage.
The Morey-Coffinet estate
First a bit about the Morey-Coffinet estate – you can skip this part if you already know this …
Domaine Morey-Coffinet was established by Michel Morey, the son of Marc Morey of Domaine Marc Morey. The Coffinet name comes from the wife of Michel Morey, Fabienne, who is the daughter of Fernand Coffinet and Cécile Pillot – the sister of Paul Pillot.
So a domaine established in on the basis of the Marc Morey estate (1/3) – the remaining part is now owned by the sisters of Michel and then the old Domaine Coffinet – now Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay – that is owned by Fabiennes sister Laura Coffinet who is running this estate with her partner Phillippe Duvernay.
Michel Morey has now been succeeded by his son Thibault Morey who is doing a great job and making some truly gorgeous wines in the beautifully vaulted cellars in the southern part of Chassagne-Montrachet.
The estate has a lovely collection of vineyards including 0.65 ha of Chassagne-Montrachet En Caillerets and 0.80 ha of Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée. More interestingly, perhaps, is that Thibault also have small holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet Dents de Chien and a perfectly located plot in Blanchots Dessus (just south of the Lafon plot in Montrachet) and also a nice chunk of Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly (0.35 ha). Futhermore small holdings in Batard-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles compliments the Chassagne holdings … and while the plots are rather small in some places … it’s hard to find a more exiting portfolio in Chassagne than this … excluding the mighty Domaine Ramonet with it’s generous holdings Grand Cru holdings.
Thibault also makes some truly beautiful reds from Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumes, Morgeot and Clos St. Jean – the latter being planted by his father 30 years ago in the area behind the estate.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet has introduced organic and biodynamic viticulture and has been certified biodynamic from the 2018 vintage – so a interesting vintage in more than one sense.
It should be noted that Morey-Coffinet also has a small negociant business – Maison Morey-Coffinet …
The 2018 whites tasted at Domaine Morey-Coffinet
I have been very curious about the 2018 whites, as it’s a both hot and rich vintage – a solar vintage. I would say that this is in my view not normally the best stating point for a white vintage, as acidity and freshness normally are things I am looking for in Burgundy whites.
I must however say that the Morey-Coffinet 2018s are surprisingly fresh and vivid. They are of cause a bit rich, but not to a degree where the balance of the wines and freshness are in danger. That being said there are still many months of elevage left … but at the moment there is a very good balance.
The organic and now biodynamic methods used could well explain the apparently finely balanced 2018s at Domaine Morey-Coffinet, as biodynamic wines often give a better acidity and freshness in the wines.
Furthermore I do think that hot and rich vintages sometimes suit some terroirs than others. First and foremost the big grand cru terroirs have the mineral structure and strength to balance even very rich wines. In this case it’s the Batard-Montrachet that seem to be one of the wines of the vintage (at Morey-Coffinet).
Another Grand Cru – the Corton Charlemange (negociant) – is also an interesting wine, and it’s important to remember the white Cortons in rich years, as especially the cooler parts of the hill perform well in hot years..
Finally I do find the elegant and refined 1er crus as favourites in a hot year like 2018. The Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet En Caillerets 2018 and the Puligny-Montracthet Les Pucelles 2018 are amongst my favourites currently. Lets see how the others will perform when the elevage is a bit further.
The wines mentioned above are my favourites currently … but lets see the others blossom in cask.
The red 2018s from Domaine Morey Coffinet
The reds are more on home turf in 2018, that being said they are rich and very generous. I think we will have some fine wines in this vintage, but they will – for me – sometimes be on the rich side I fear.
I do drink red Chassagne for the pleasure, the refinement and vivid freshness, and therefore I would take a careful look at the 2018s.
Time will however show how strong the structure is and how the freshness will show when the wines are in bottle. So far so good.