Visit to Clément Boillot – Tasting the Domaine Ghislaine Barthod 2020s

The times they are a changin’ at Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, with Ghislaine’s son Clément Boillot taking over the family’s wine portfolio, consisting of three domaines: his own endeavour in Beaujolais; his father’s estate, Domaine Louis Boillot; and Domaine Ghislaine Barthod from his mother.

Big changes on the ground, although not necessarily in style. Still, quite the transformation for Clément, whose early experience was in the Beaujolais part of the business. 

Both Ghislaine and her husband Louis Boillot are there with Clément, discreetly in the background. They offer support and are still greeting visitors to ensure continuity.

I’ve already covered the Domaine Louis Boillot Beaujolais, and have now reached Domaine Ghislaine Barthod – a personal favourite of mine since my first visit there.

The style and quality have been maintained; why change a winning formula? But there is no doubt that new methods will eventually come into force as the years go by. This is how Burgundy evolves: sometimes in large steps, other times in more delicate advances.

The wines were tasted with Clément from tank on March 31. Let’s go!

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 2020

The Chambolle village is from eight different parcels, and offers quite an intense greeting from the village. It’s rich and lively, with vivid acidity and good spark; typical of the Ghislaine Barthod range. Quite delicious.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 31/03/2022 –

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Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Aux Combottes 2020

The Chambolle Aux Combottes is perfectly ripe, with a lively attack and beautifully ripe phenolics. There’s a lovely, sweet, fruit note, and delightful energy. This is a true beauty, with its delicate hedonistic qualities.

(Drink from 2033) – Fine – (91-92p) – Tasted 31/03/2022 –

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Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots 2020

Les Chatelots is rarely seen as a lieu-dit; this is from a plot on the doorstep of the Barthod estate. It’s deeper and more intense than the Combottes, and makes its 80-year-old vines count, with the millerandage grapes giving a unique, pomegranate-tinged character.

(Drink from 2033) – Fine – (91-92p) – Tasted 31/03/2022 –

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Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 2020

Another cuvee made from old vines and millerandage berries, this is from the bottom of the 1er cru band, and it seems to come from deeper soil. A fine wine, but perhaps lacking the ultimate in vivid freshness – at least at the moment.

(Drink from 2033) – Very Good+ – (90-91p) – Tasted 31/03/2022

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Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Noirots 2020

Chambolle Les Noirots is below the southern end of Bonnes Mares, next to Gruenchers. It’s a bit on the darker side (the Morey side of Chambolle), yet is still pure and vividly flavoured. This could perhaps close down after bottling, but I’m only guessing here.

(Drink from 2038) – Fine – (91-92p) – Tasted 31/03/2022 –

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