Visit to Domaine Leflaive – Tasting the 2023s

Domaine Leflaive is always a treat … I’ve had the pleasure of previous wine makers and managers, but this time, I met with Brice de La Morandière, who is the current leader of Domaine Leflaive, and as a family member, a part-owner of Domaine Leflaive.

This was a cheerful visit … great and serene whites and an informal and cheerful host with an impeccable balance between humour and the respect and refinement of the Leflaive wines. Brice de La Morandière embraces the wines and the brand like only a true owner can do … it was a true pleasure.

Improvements in the new Leflaive era

Domaine Leflaive has undertaken some major improvements, including a full re-conception and re-working of its cellars. Previously, Leflaive worked out of two cellars 500 metres apart in Puligny-Montrachet. Now, vinification occurs in only one place, and significant investments have been made to fuel further expansion and improvements.

Gone is transporting the wines between the two cellars, as well as doing the elevage in the perhaps less-than-optimal cellar at the main estate building on the Place des Marronniers.

Vinification has been optimised to reflect the change to Diam closures, resulting in complex, organic wines that fulfil the Leflaive promise. The chai is bigger and with two pressing lines, allowing for a rapid harvest, normally done in 6 days.

This vinification efficiency is, in my view, essential. With the global warming pushing the optimal harvest window and heating the harvest conditions to beyond 30 celcius like in 2023, where a canicule struck during the harvest.

Leflaive and I

Leflaive and I go back many years, and the domaine has provided some of my greatest white Burgundy moments over the last three decades.

When I began collecting Burgundies back in the early 1990s, my financial resources were limited (as now), and I began with reds, buying some 1988s, ’89s, and ’90s. I didn’t have the financial wherewithal to purchase white Burgundies at the time. The first whites I acquired were 1991 Domaine Raveneau Valmur, and the next large investment was some bottles of 1996 Leflaive – both village and 1ers crus. I just opened the last bottle of those a few years back, and the 1996s Leflaives showed brilliantly, showing why one should definitely age white Burgundies. I have tasted many Leflaive wines from the early and mid-1990s, and some of them have been among the best white Burgundies I’ve ever tasted, with the 1996 Batard-Montrachet at the summit, followed by a number of bottles of the 1996 Pucelles.

Years have, of course, passed, and for my 50th birthday at Restaurant Enomania in Copenhagen (my favourite restaurant), we had Leflaive’s 2010 Chevalier-Montrachet. It was one of the highlights in quite a strong line-up of wines.

Yes, we go way back, Leflaive, I and Mme.. Leflaive has given me a lot of pleasure and tremendously memorable Burgundy moments.

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The 2023s from Domaine Leflaive

The bottom end of the wines is already bottled, while the top end is in tank awaiting bottling.

The Leflaive 2023s are more or less spot on phenolic-wise. Leflaive is often a slight notch to the cooler side … a strategy that worked very well in 2023. None of the wines are on the hotter side, with a few slightly on the cooler side …. all in all, a very beautiful balance for 2023.

The 2023s were tasted on June 10th 2025.

Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc 2023

The Bourgogne Blanc is spot on in 2023 with a lovely enegy and effortless fruit. love the phenolic definition …very frest and vivid for a wine of this caliber. One of the best Bourgogne Blancs I have tasted from Domaine Leflaive.

(Drink from 2025) – Fine – (88-89p) –

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Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 2023

The Puligny-Montrachet is a classic Puligny – both effortless and quite airy It is really showing well with the minerality. It is impressive for this level .. and it seems like quality increases year after year as the vinification is improved. A deligthful wine with good emotional qualities with a nice phenolic energy.

(Drink from 2028) – Fine – (91-92p) –

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