Terroir Insight: Jean Marc Millot Côte de Nuits Village

Normally when I make Terroir Insights its the famous vineyards and often the classified terroirs. This is however not the case this week as I now head to Comblanchien just south of the Premeaux/Nuits-Saint-George appellation.

I have … rarely … tasted wines from Comblanchien – or should I say never knowingly tasted wines from this small appellation. I have however recently tasted a fabulous Bourgogne Rouge from Nicolas Faure made from at vineyard in Premeaux – located on the “wrong” side of the railroad below the village of Premeaux … so perhaps there are indeed terroirs to explore in the areas outside the known appellations.

The proof came a few days later when I tasted the Cote de Nuits Village “Aux Faulques” from Jean-Marc Millot made from a 1.8 ha plot in the heart of the Comblanchien appellation.

Comblanchien – south of Premeaux

The Comblanchien appellation starts just south of Clos de la Maréchale in the southern end of Premeaux. It’s a small village, where the main part of the village is located below route nationale.

There are however quite some vineyards in this appellations, and one is the terroir Aux Fauques located above the village.

The following vineyards are shown on the map:

1. Aux Fauques
2. Les Grandes Vignes
3. Saint-Seine
4. Les Retraits
5. Clos de la Maréchale

As it can be seen the distance from Clos de la Maréchale to Aux Fauques is only around 500 m – so quite close to one of the prominent 1er crus in Nuits-Saint-Georges.

The main part of Aux Fauques is owned by the talented Millot family in Nuits-Saint-Georges who makes a fine Côte de Nuits Village lieu dit called “Aux Faulques” from this terroir.

Jean Marc Millot Cote de Nuits Village “Aux Faulques”

The terroir Aux Fauques is located in the center of the Comblancien appellation above route nationale – the vineyard area is 2.8332 ha.

Jean-Marc Millot owns the largest plot – a 1.7946 ha plot located in the southern end of the climate – see map below.

From this plot they make one of the most delightful Côte de Nuits Villages I have tasted recently … it offers a nice forward and generous fruit like the wines from Jean-Marc Millot normally does, and this with a quite interesting minerality to boot.

The complexity of the 2014 Côte de Nuits Village “Aux Faulques” is in my view matching that of many village wines from more prominent appellations than Comblanchien and Côte de Nuits Village for than matter.

Jean-Marc Millot produces around 7000 bottles of this fine wines, and the price point is very interesting indeed .. with a price for the 2014 vintage below 30 Euro per bottle.

I don’t miss any elements and qualities when I drink this wine – it’s a proper little Burgundy with a lovely complexity and a beautiful drinkability – leaving you with the desire for another glass.

Côte de Nuits Village or Comblanchien 

I really dont like these “hybrid” appellations like Côte de Nuits Village when a more precise definition perhaps could be used. I would love to see a wine like this be sold under the label of the Comblanchien appellation … this would put Comblanchien on the map, and it would make me want to explore the other vineyards of this appellation.

I understand the red tape and the French rules and regulations … but I would love to see the old appellations reclaim their history … a Premeaux is a Premeaux and not a Nuits-Saint-George, and a Echezeaux is made from one or more specific terroirs .. please tell me from where .. it makes a huge difference to me.

The Millot cuvée from Comblanchien was sort of a revelation for me, as I honestly did not expect this level at this price point, and at the same time it’s actually a wine produced in quite some magnitude – so one can actually get quite some bottles in the cellar.

For me also a perfect wine for restaurants as it’s open and forward even in it’s youth …

Tasting note Jean-Marc Millot, Côte de Nuits Village “Aux Faulques” 2014

The Cote de Nuits Village “Aux Faulques” is made from a vineyard located in Comblanchien just south of Premeaux i.e. south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. This is a lovely and juicy wine with plenty of energy and a very interesting expression of terroir for this level. The nose offer lovely red – sweet red fruits combined with a hint of pomegranate and red currant – the minerality is playful and quite refined. On the palate quite generous, fine acidity – lovely fresh and juicy midpalate fruit ending a long and energetic finish. This is a bargain … pure, juicy and quite complex .. below € 30 .. get some after you sign up for a Winehog Premium subscription.

(Drink From 2018) – Good+ (87-88p) – Tasted 30/09/2016

Tasting Notes for this producer

• Jean-Marc Millot, Clos de Vougeot 2014 October 15, 2016
• Jean-Marc Millot, Echezeaux 2014 October 15, 2016
• Jean-Marc Millot, Cote de Nuits Village “Aux Faulques” 2014 September 30, 2016
• Jean-Marc Millot, Bourgogne 2014 September 30, 2016
• Jean-Marc Millot, Grands Echezeaux 2002 December 2, 2011

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