Burgundy and tradition are strongly linked, but as in all other aspects of life, change eventually takes the stage.
At Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, new winemaker Jean Lupatelli has now come through his second vintage, 2022, a large and lovely vintage at de Vogüé.
New winemaker = new ideas and outlook
Jean Lupatelli came from Domaine Decelle-Villa in Nuits-St-Georges, and he brought plenty of experience and a strong background. But he’s now moved up to the major leagues, as de Vogüé is one of the old, legendary growers, alongside DRC and Rousseau – estates with long, prominent histories.
He changed the cases used for the harvest – smaller, 20-kilogram boxes – to ensure fewer damaged grapes reached the winery. This is important if whole-cluster vinification is going to be partly, or even fully, employed. Furthermore, the old mechanical pump used to fill the fermenting tanks with grapes has been replaced with a gentler elevator system. This gives purer, better-defined fruit, as the grapes arrive in the tank in better shape.
One of the most notable changes, however, is the use of whole clusters. All the reds now include 50% whole clusters, as opposed to the destemmed grapes used during the Francois Millet regime. Finally, the malolactic fermentation is no longer delayed, and was done during the fall of 2022.
Serious changes, in other words.
The 2022s at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Jean Lupatelli is a reflective guy, and he’s graciously agreed (together with Jean-Luc Pepin) to maintain the twice-yearly tasting scheme I’ve had the good fortune to have at de Vogüé for quite a while. This gives me unique insights into the wines and is gratifying as a taster – or reviewer, or critic if you prefer. It’s also unusual in these modern, busy days.
This is my first tasting of the 2022s.
Tasting new traditions
Let’s be realistic: This is one of my first tastings of the 2022 vintage, and it is early in their development. I have tasted ’22s at Nicolas Faure, Bastian Wolber, Bastien Gautheron, and now de Vogüė.
In general, the wines are open and generous, with charming, lively fruit. The acidity is adequate, meaning the ’22s seem very well balanced here.
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