Domaine des Chézeaux 2023 … “new” beginnings

A new estate is emerging on the starry blue sky of Burgundy, Domaine de Chézeaux – or should I say the new Domaine de Chézeaux – based on the vineyard holdings of the Mercier family who owned the Domaine de Chézeaux estate located in upper Gevrey-Chambertin.

Domaine de Chézeaux was sold to Charles Van Canneyt and his wife Anne-Sophie in 2021, and this sale has been unfolding according to the very complex rules of Burgundy. This is indeed complex as there were no less than three métayage agreements linking other producers to the Domaine des Chézeaux vineyards.

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The sale of a complex estate like Domaine des Chézeaux certainly creates a lot of issues that can be very tedious regarding vineyard ownership or rental. Now, the discussions have ended as the distribution of vineyards is more or less finalised.

Domaine des Chézeaux was sold fully as an estate to Charles Van Canneyt and his wife Anne-Sophie Gagey and this does make the rules more simple … the buyer gets the vineyards when the métayage agreements expire … or even before.

This means that Charles Van Canneyt gets most of the vineyards, Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, Griotte-Chambertin (most of it), Chambolle Les Charmes, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers and Gevrey-Chambertin village.

The vineyards will continue in a separate estate – Domaine des Chézeaux located in the old Domaine des Chézeaux estate in the top end of Gevrey-Chambertin.

The estate is separate from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat and owned by Charles Van Cannyt and his wife Anne-Sophie Gagey, It will have a new label and will be sold under the Domaine des Chézeaux label.

So, a beginning for Domaine des Chézeaux as a winemaker, and a continuation of Domaine des Chézeaux as an estate and vineyard owner.

Domaine des Chézeaux … a bit of history

The origin of Domaine des Chézeaux dates back to 1928 when the Mercier family established itself in Gevrey-Chambertin.

The Mercier family had a very fine portfolio of vineyards with plots in Le Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, Griotte-Chambertin, Chambolle Les Charmes, Gevrey-Chambertin Laveaux-Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers and Gevrey-Chambertin village.

The entirety of the vineyards were leased to other vignerons – Ponsot (Laurent) had Le Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, and 57% of Griotte-Chambertin. The Chambolle Charmes vineyard was also leased to Ponsot, and the Gevrey 1er Cru and village vineyards to Domaine Berthaut in Fixin. The rest of the Griotte-Chambertin holdings – 43% – was leased to Domaine René Leclerc.

The métayage agreements ensured that Domaine des Chézeaux got wine from the vignerons, and these wines were then, for the most part, sold under the old Domaine des Chézeaux label.

The name Chézeaux comes from the village terroir that is located just outside the estate buildings just north of the Château Gevrey-Chambertin.

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2023 a new start

As mentioned, the final solution with the partition of the Domaine des Chézeaux has taken some time, and in 2023 we will see the implementation.

In 2023 the following vineyards have been transferred to Charles Van Canneyt:

• Gevrey Chambertin Clos de Chézeaux
• Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers
• Griotte Chambertin

In 2024, these vineyards have been transferred to Charles Van Canneyt:

• Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux
• Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers
• Griotte-Chambertin
• Chambolle Les Charmes
• Chambertin
• Clos Saint-Denis

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This means that Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet gets the plot on Laveaux Saint-Jacques, whereas Laurent Ponsot gets a smaller part of Griotte-Chambertin. Finally, a small Griotte-Chambertin’s plot ends up in the hands of Cécile Tremblay.

The wines of the first vintage 2023

In 2023, Domaine des Chézeaux made three wines before moving to the new facilities in Gevrey.

The style is quite like the wines of Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat, hence moderate new oak, and fine freshness in the 2023 vintage … Charles Van Canneyt did very well in this vintage.

One has a feeling that Charles Van Cannyts needs to adapt the vineyards and perhaps adjust the style a bit to the Gevrey terroirs.

So, Charles Van Cannneyt deserves some time to tune in to the new estate…

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Domaine des Chézeaux Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux 2023

Quite concentrated for a Gevrey village – deep fruit – and a fine density. It is a bit on the short side … could be due to the high yields of the 2023 vintage. A nice wine … but expect more from the following vintages.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Fine (89p)

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