A new rising star! This is how people like me – wine journalists – write in a moment of excitement and sometimes even ill-hidden self-promotion. The truth is, however, that this vigneron is not that well-known, but presumably cherished by many private clients in France.
So OK: for me, a relatively unknown producer. My first bottle of Domaine Vincent Ledy was enjoyed on Monday March 9 in his cellar in Nuits-Saint-Georges.
But yes: This is in many ways a special domaine, and the wines are tremendously exciting. The 2019s look very promising indeed, but also the 2018s and 2017s showed very well. To limit myself, I will not go into the 2016s and 2015s in this article … perhaps later.
And yes – Vincent Ledy deserves the publicity and the cheers!
Vincent Ledy – a friendly geek
Let’s face it: Vincent Ledy is not your average vigneron. He is in his own special way both talented and a bit edgy and tense, in the sense that not all his wines are easy-drinking, middle-of-the-road Burgundies. They are special, vivid wines with a quite unique freshness and glow that is somewhat difficult to understand.
I’m not sure I fully comprehend what makes the wines special, but old vines do help. Ledy’s experiments with zero-sulfur vinification are another potential explanation. The vinification is in some cases a bit on the radical side, with quite a hint of volatile acidity – although not problematically high. But it does create a certain notable tension in the wines, adding a slightly nervous edge. The wines are charming and tense, with delightful liveliness.
The last thing to note is the slightly odd lineup of vineyards. But let’s go to the tasting notes.
Tasting notes for the Ledy 2019s
Starting out with the Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2019 Vielles Vignes, which comes from a vineyard in Chaux – the area on the Côte above the main part of Nuits-Saint-Georges. The vineyard has a southeastern exposure, and quite limestony soil. One part of the parcel was planted in 1954 and produces this beautiful “entry-level” wine. The 2019 is so far made without sulfur, and with 100% whole-cluster inclusion. Very vivid with a core of redcurrant and strawberries, and a hint of rhubarb. Lively, with delightful tension and nerve. An enthralling wine – Good ( 86 – 87p) – .
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