The time has come for one of the highlights of the tasting season … the tasting of the latest vintage from Comte Liger-Belair – the already fabled 2025s.
It is no secret that the Comte Liger-Belair wines are among my favourites in Burgundy, and with the expansion of the portfolio from 2022 and onwards, this tasting has become even more exciting as the new wines are “growing” into the old lineup … some rapidly, others with more effort.
Note that Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, with the 2022 vintage, got new plots in Grands Echezeaux, Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts, La Croix Rameau, and Aux Reas. Furthermore, he added to his existing plots in Clos Vougeot, Echezeaux, and Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots.
New plots = tremendous possibilities
Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair got the opportunity to take over the new vineyards from the Nathalie Pacareau estate (formerly a part of Lamarche), who decided to lease her vines to Louis-Michel.
The vineyards are prominent, even for Vosne. The Grands Echezeaux parcel is 0.30 hectare, and is located in the middle of the vineyard just above the Clos Vougeot. The Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts consists of two plots in the southern end totalling just short of 0.50 ha. The Vosne La Croix Rameau is in the southern, upper part of the vineyard, encompassing 0.21 ha just below Romanée Saint-Vivant. Finally, the Aux Reas is in the southern part of the village.
As well, Liger-Belair got extra plots in Echezeaux, Clos Vougeot, and Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots to complement his existing holdings in those vineyards.
Two of the vineyards produce wines that are completely new to the estate – Grands Echezeaux and La Croix Rameau. Malconsorts was part of the domaine’s patrimony before it was auctioned off in 1933 (not these parcels; others from this climat), so this is a welcome return of the wine to the Liger-Belair portfolio.
The biodynamic conversion of the vineyards has already begun, and Louis-Michel Liger-Belair will then evaluate how the new plots fit into his existing portfolio of wines and cuvees.
A bit about hedonism and Liger-Belair
As always, I take this chance to explain hedonism and biodynamics. I have followed the full journey with the implementation of biodynamics at Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair, and know both the complexity of these topics … and while complex, the Liger-Belair estate does offer a textbook example to expand on biodynamics.
Hedonistic indulgence and joy have become my mantra after a long, philosophical discussion at a small house in Vosne-Romanée. This has caused some important, and in some cases quite dramatic, re-evaluations of many producers whose wines I have tasted over the years.
The question is really simple: Do the wine and the producer provide hedonistic joy and energy, or even create a true vin d’emotion?
It did not take long for me to determine that the wines of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair do bring me joy, hedonistic pleasure, and tremendous indulgence. They have a certain ability to thrill and seduce me – often followed by the urge to open another bottle to share with my friends.
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- A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion
- A truly hedonistic wine – lively and enjoyable
- A vivacious wine for pure indulgance
- A potential vin d´émotion - frais et léger