Chambolle Charmes; Chambolle charm …. I always loved the wines from this quiet small village wedged into the valley north of the legendary Musigny vineyard.
Musigny Grand Cru defines this appellation – but it has so much more to offer – and I’m not thinking only about Bonnes Mares – I’m also focussing on the numerous more and less known 1er crus of the Chambolle appellation .. and there are many.
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod is the place to experience the multitude and the diversity of this fabled appellation … as this fine estate produces no less than nine 1er crus from Chambolle-Musigny – and in fact I think Ghislaine also has a small plot on Les Sentiers – so ten different 1er crus could be made at this estate.
Ghislaine Barthod herself is the Chambolle charm personified – and her wines also combines the genereous charm with the delicate refinement of this appellation – this estate do not get the acclaim it deserves – and I have been neglecting the wines from Ghislaine too long – shame on me really!.
Mugnier, Vogüe and Roumier are rightfully famous – Ghislaine Barthod is however the connoisseur choice under the radar – no Grand Crus at this estate but a lot of Chambolle spirit that embraces you with fresh vibrant fruit and minerality.
The wines are furthermore more available for hedonistic indulgence – rather than being a main target for speculation and pretentious collecting – this is true Burgundian spirit.
It was my first visit at Domaine Ghislaine Barthod .. and I must say that I’m seduced by these wines.
We tasted almost the full 2015 lineup from cask – thoroughly delighted by these pure and generous Chambolles – and enriched by the geographical tour around the 1er crus of Chambolle Musigny.
Let the fun commence!
The Ghislaine Barthod 2015s in general
The 2015s from Ghislaine Barthod is in my view just in he ripeness sweetspot – capturing the energetic yet generous character of the 2015 vintage.
There are two words that stayed in my mind after the tasting at Ghislaine Barthod – one is generosity, these wines offer a delightful joie de vivre – and the second is transparency hence also purity and expression of terroir.
The expression of terroir is extra interesting when it is possible to sample so many different terroirs from the Chambolle appellation. I must say that I was even a bit surprised by the range of expressions these terroirs can offer … such a treasure to be honest.
Without further ado to the notes!
Tasting notes from March 30th 2015
All the 2015s showed very well aside from a bit reduction here and there.
Starting out with the Bourgogne rouge 2015 lovely slightly high-pitched fruit – notes of dark cherries, raspberries and a hint of violets. On the palate juicy and quite intense for a village – fine energy and a nice joie de vivre – a fine entry to this fine line-up. Good+++ (86 – 87p).
The Chambolle-Musigny 2015 comes from 13 different plots scattered over the Chambolle appellation … a tour de Chambolle so to speak. The bouquet is expressive and very Chambolle – dark cherries, raspberries – forward and transparent. On the palate rich and vibrant with a fine mineral backbone. Generous yet focused – not the ultimative in focus as it’s not a lieu-dit, but offering tremendous pleasure. Fine (90 – 91p).
First of the 1er crus Les Chatelots – a vineyard located just near the Ghislaine Barthod estate – i.e. just below the metropole town center of Chambolle-Musigny. This is a step up from the village offering more focus and a slightly cooler fruit. The nose offer fine notes of sweet red and dark cherries, a slight hint of plum and again violets. On the palate very juicy and forward – fine detailed fruit – lovely balance, but first and foremost very enjoyable. Fine (91 – 92p).
Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 2015 is a terroir located below the village of Chambolle-Musigny – slightly to the north. A step up in depth, weight and ripeness. The nose offer red and dark cherries, violets … bit more plum and spiciness. On the palate more generous with plenty of ample fruit – nice fresh red fruit to offer tension and energy – a notch better than the Chatelots perhaps – both delightful. Fine+ (92 – 93p).
Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes is located just below Chatelots and next to the northern section of Chambolle Les Charmes. Slightly reduced – with a fine red fruit and a more red profile aroma wise. The nose offer delicate red fruits – strawberries, red and dark cherries. On the palate not quite matching the Beaux Bruns – and slightly riper – a lavish and very hedonistic wine. A wine for pleasure and enjoyment with it’s seductive finish. Fine (91 – 92p).
Chambolle Les Baudes is located below Bonnes Mares and just south of Les Sentiers on the Morey side of Chambolle. This is slightly more on the dense side – still very balanced – but this terroir often produce rather generous wines. The nose offer quite ripe fruit – deep earthy minerality – spiced with violets and plum. On the palate generous – good energy and focus – is one of the more ripe of the cuvées – without being too ripe. A hedonistic wine … and a fine one. Fine+ (92 – 93p).
The Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers is located just north of the village below the road to Morey-Saint-Denis and Les Derriére la Grange. A very interesting terroir with some element from both the Morey and the Chambolle side of the appellation. The nose offer generous fruit – red and dark cherries, hints of pomegranate that adds some energy and tension. On the palate a delightful tension between red and dark fruit – quite intense but with lightfooted delicacy – I love this terroir. Fine+ (92 – 93p).
Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes is one of the more well known 1er crus located just south and below he village – on the same level as Les Hauts Doix and Les Amoureuses – so sort of on the Chambolle side of the village – although the geology is very complex in this area. A lovely quite expressive wine – with a fine energy. The nose offer fresh and floral fruit – cranberries, raspberries and a hint of pomegranate – served with a tremendous spiciness. On the palate seductive juicy fruit – lovely mouth feel – with a long and lingering finish. This is a very complete wine. Fine++ (92 – 94p) and a slight notch up from Gruenchers.
The Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuées comes from a plot in the middle northern part of Les Fuées towards Bonnes Mares. This is one of my favorites here – love this vineyard and Ghislaine has made the most of the 2015. The nose offer very generous notes of cherries – some quite sweet – some red currant and pomegranate – a detailed and filigree minerality is supporting this beautifully. On the palate refined – but with quite serious intensity and length – very transparent and vibrant – offering af magnificent drive and persistence. What a gorgeous wine – Chapeau .. Very Fine (93 – 94p).
The Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras comes from a plot located in the southern end of the vineyard on very shallow soil. This is for me the top wine of the range from a special place just near and almost inside the village. The nose is bursting with red and dark fruits – pomegranate, red and dark cherries, hint of strawberries – and a tremendous filigree stony minerality. On the palate very vibrant and juicy – very impressive transparency and purity. A truly magnificent Chambolle 1er cru .. what a treat. Will most likely require quite some time in the cellar to unfold in all it’s beauty and charm. Very Fine+ (94 – 95p) perhaps a bit excessive with the rating – but such a delightful wine.
Lastly Chambolle-Musigny Les Vérroilles 1er cru – this is a small monopole since 1987, when it was upgraded to 1er cru from village – whereas the rest of Les Vérroilles remained village. This vineyard is located just above the southern part of Bonnes Mares and seem to take it’s character from this Grand Cru. So to something completely different … a darker and slightly more backward wine perhaps – but also a wine with a notch up in concentration and power. This is clearly an extension of Bonnes Mares – nose bursting with dark cherries, liquorice, lavender and violets .. the minerality is deep yet quite compact and intense. On the palate quite tightly knit, intense with a very nice mid-palate power. A wine that will require quite some cellaring … is it better than the Les Fuées and Les Cras? – not in my view – bigger yes but but perhaps lacking a bit of the vibrant energy found in the former two. Very Fine (93 – 94p).