I now come to the second report on Clément Boillot’s family wine portfolio, consisting of three domaines: his own endeavour in Beaujolais; his father’s estate, Domaine Louis Boillot; and Domaine Ghislaine Barthod from his mother.
In this article I cover Domaine Louis Boillot. His father’s domaine originates from Volnay, Pommard – and Gevrey-Chambertin.
The style of Domaine Louis Boillot is not significantly different from that of Domaine Ghislaine Barthod; i.e., most of the difference comes from the terroirs and the vines planted there.
Both Ghislaine and her husband Louis Boillot are still there with Clément, discreetly in the background. But this is Clément’s project first and foremost, and judging from the 2021s, he is doing outstandingly.
I tasted only a small sample of the Boillot wines, with the Gevreys clearly performing best.
Domaine Louis Boillot Volnay 2021
Volnay in 2021 was difficult, as the frost hit hard, as did multitude diseases. The Volnay village is quite rich (unusual in 2021), but not the most elegant and refined version I have encountered from 2021.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 04/02/2023
Domaine Louis Boillot Volnay Brouillards 2021
Vivid, delicate, and harmonious, this has a lovely, fruity style and clear Volnay character. It is elegant and airy, with nice mid-palate fruit that shows good ripeness and complexity. A borderline vin d’emotion.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine – (91p) – Tasted 04/02/2023 –
Domaine Louis Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin 2021
The Gevreys from Boillot work better than the Volnays. Actually, this was also the case in 2020, so perhaps this is due to the terroirs and their vines. With beautiful phenolic ripeness, this is really singing. It’s rich, velvety, and delicate: a truly enjoyable wine.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 04/02/2023 –
Domaine Louis Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin Cerabaudes 2021
Old vines – 110 years old – give gorgeous energy and juicy mid-palate silkiness to this stunner. Rich and velvety, it has a fresh, delicate, and deep note of fruit, along with an orange tinge like the wines of Marchand-Tawse made from the Maume selection massale. A sexy wine, but not quite matching the 2020.
(Drink from 2035) – Very Fine – (93p) – Tasted 04/02/2023 –
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