One of my discoveries in 2023 was the white wines from Agnès Paquet. The 2021s are truly tremendous, offering delightful energy and purity rarely seen at this quality level.
Agnès Paquet created her estate in 2000, starting with a plot acquired by her parents in the 1950s and subsequently rented out to local vignerons.
The domaine now covers around 13 hectares in the Côte de Beaune and the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, with appellations including Bourgogne (aligoté and pinot noir), Hautes Côtes de Beaune white and red, Auxey-Duresses (totalling 5 ha, or 40% of the estate), as well as small plots in Pommard and Chassagne-Montrachet.
The Auxey-Duresses vineyard is located in the top part of the appellation: one large plot in the lieu-dit Les Hoz (just above the village of Melin) that is a Paquet monopole. This is the core of the estate, and it creates a cool focus for the wines.
Agnès Paquet and I
I have (from the sidelines) followed Agnès Paquet’s wines, and while I enjoyed them, I did not take the initiative to explore them in greater depth. Until now.
Tasting the Auxey-Duresses multiple times at La Cuverie in Vosne-Romanée moved me to the point where a visit was unavoidable. These are crisp, delicious wines.
So here we are: February 16 at Domaine Agnès Paquet in Meloisy.
Domaine Agnès Paquet Bourgogne Aligoté Le Clou et la Plume 2022
This aligoté is a classic 2022: somewhat on the generous and expressive side, offering delightful fruity aromas. For the purist – the lovers of 2021 – this is definitely on the richer side. Still, it has good balance and will bring joy to most. Delicate and forward, with elegant fruit, it’s generous yet still fresh.
(Drink From 2024) – Good++ – (87p) –
Domaine Agnès Paquet Auxey-Duresses Les Hoz blanc 2022
The white Auxey-Duresses, from the vineyard Les Hoz, is at the top part of Auxey and is thus a bit cooler than other places in the appellation. The 2022 is richer and more generous than the 2021, but still has the same expression and aromatic profile. This is perhaps not for raw oysters, but with more elaborate oyster dishes this will do. It is mineral and limestoney; what a delight.
(Drink From 2027) – Very Good – (89p) –
Domaine Agnès Paquet Auxey-Duresses Cuvée Patience n°14 2021
The 2021 Cuvée Patience n°14 is a long-elevage version of the white Les Hoz. It comes from the very oldest vines – 90 years or so – and is more intense, but still cool. This has more weight, and good depth, offering support for even denser dishes such as grilled lobster (just thinking, and salivating, here).
(Drink From 2029) – Very Good – (90p) –
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