The Energy and Generosity of the White 2022s – Visit to Domaine Morey-Coffinet

I am back at Domaine Morey-Coffinet for the pleasure of tasting these elegant wines from the prime vineyards of Chassagne-Montrachet …

The wines were served by the charming and enthusiastic Marjolaine, who took me through the big lineup with useful comments and grace.

And as there’s no reason to waste time, let’s go to the 2022s.

The style and impression of the white ’22s

The 2022 whites are delightfully charming, with a fine hedonistic glow and vivid energy.

The vintage keywords are balance and energy, as this is not an acidity-driven year. Yet somehow, the ’22s have surprising freshness and energy that defies all the rules of acidity. These attributes take the wines far, and while one could fear that this burst of freshnesse will deflate somewhat over time, this is where the wines will rely on the energy provided by their terroirs.

Thibault Morey has found a delicate balance in his 2022s; they are generally on the fresh, elegant side, and not too heavy. That said, down-slope vineyards do remind one that this can be quite a rich vintage. They need terroir expression, and if it’s not there, then drink them young – and well-chilled.

Despite 2022 being a rather hot vintage, most of its wines don’t have a hot-vintage character. While they are surprisingly cool, one can find hints of the summer’s heat that – currently at least – are charming. Call it a slightly warm note with an organic, vivid tone and an ever-so-slight impression of sweet/sour orange. As in 2019, the freshness of the Trovita orange and the sweet hint of Citrus Unshiu or a not-too-ripe Kiyomi mandarin.

Let’s go to the detailed impressions. Tasting of bottled wines on March 7th 2024.

Domaine Morey-Coffinet Bourgogne Blanc 2022

The Bourgogne Blanc is beautiful; rich and succulent. It’s delicate, with a part aged in amphorae and the rest in both big and standard-sized barrels. The vintage expressed itself in generosity, and given this, I would suggest drinking this young, rather than letting the richness of age take over.

(Drink From 2024) – Good++ – (87-88p) –

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Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet 2022

The Chassagne village 2022, matured in both oak and amphorae, gives a more vivid, reductive wine. It is classic Chassagne; I love the style, with its airy light-footedness and good salinity.

(Drink From 2025) – Very Good – (89-90p) –

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