More Coche – Fabien Coche

This is a strange year. I normally would have visited Fabien Coche a long time ago, but due to the multiple lockdowns, I never got the chance.

And Fabien Coche truly deserves a visit. He is near the top of my list when the world gets back closer to normal again.

Fortunately, Fabien’s Danish importer put on a fine program recently for a few guests at Copenhagen’s delightful Restaurant Montergade, which is rapidly becoming one of my favourite lunch venues. We tasted four “quick” wines from the generous and forward 2018 vintage.

The ’18 Fabien Coche Bourgogne Cote d’Or is elegant and cool for the vintage, presumably helped by a relatively high yield. In many cases, higher yields in 2018 do in fact save the balance and drinkability of the wines, as they otherwise become too concentrated, dense, or even crude. This is quite light-footed for the vintage, and a treat.

(Drink from 2020) – Good (87p) – 13/11/2020

Next up is the Chassagne-Montrachet La Goujonne, a more opulent and weighty wine. For me this is too intense, and it lacks the airy lightness of the Bourgogne Cote d’Or. The terroir seems to produce this quite rich, spicy style of Chassagne; it is not an ideal match for the 2018 vintage. Coche is a Meursault expert, and performed much better with his Meursaults. This is almost vulgar, with its green hazelnuts.

(Drink from 2020) – Good (87p) – 13/11/2020

The Fabien Coche Meursault Charmes is back to home turf. This is focused on drinkability and hedonistic charm. Rich, almost velvety, with adequate acidity to balance the festivities. An enjoyable Charmes for the vintage.

(Drink from 2027) – Fine+ (92-93p) – 13/11/2020

Last but not least, the Fabien Coche Meursault Perrieres shows a very refined, mineral touch. This has the airy lightness and finesse missing from many of the 2018 whites. It has lovely balance, and the depth and oompf that the Charmes lacks somewhat. Very refined indeed, and a positive statement for the vintage.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Fine+ (94-95p) – 13/11/2020 – 

Coche’s 2018 whites are better than expected, but the wiggle room in 2018 for making elegant, refined whites was not that big. There is always a risk that 2018 wines become somewhat crude or rough around the edges, and the food match should be carefully considered in these cases. If one has a dense, crude 2018 white, spicier food will bring out its best. And remember to serve the wine cold.

Domaine Fabien Coche’s wines were served by Rufus Vin Aps.

Tasting Notes for this producer

• Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Les Chevalières 2017 June 24, 2020
• Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Goutte d’Or 2017 June 24, 2020
• Domaine Fabien Coche Meursault Les Luchets 2017 February 28, 2020
• Domaine Fabien Coche Bourgogne Cote d’Or 2017 Chardonnay February 28, 2020
• Domaine Fabien Coche, Batard-Montrachet 1978 December 17, 2017

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