I first tasted the Domaine Pierre Girardin wines in Copenhagen last year, and was intrigued by the wines coming from this young man.
The words were then, and are still: “A new star is born? Perhaps. In any case, without a doubt a bright new talent has emerged!”
In this article, I will go through the red 2018s tasted in Burgundy. I have already posted notes and comments on the white 2018s from Pierre Girardin .. see this article here which includes some background on the estate.
So without further ado … on to the reds!
The wines: mineral-driven, low-sulphur and low-extraction
Along with the whites, Pierre-Vincent has made a fine collection of reds from Pommard, Beaune, Corton, Vosne-Romanee and Gevrey-Chambertin.
The scope of the operation has grown, and now includes some top-end grands crus to thrill the appetites of tasters and reviewers. This is one benefit of a negociant operation: One can expand rather quickly.
The style of the reds is fruity and forward, yet with lovely focus and intensity. And like the white wines, they really express the mineral side of their terroirs. The 2018s are, however, something of a challenge, as the vintage was significantly warmer – even hotter – if you catch my drift.
Some whole clusters are used in vinifying several of the wines, but otherwise, there is a gentle destemming, yielding a large proportion of unbroken berries for fermentation. The extraction is light, with few or no punch-downs – mainly pumping over. Following elevage, free sulphur at bottling is dosed to 15 mg/l, which is low.
Domaine Pierre Girardin Bourgogne “Eclat de Calcaire” 2018
This is a Bourgogne rouge from the lower parts of Pommard (mainly) and Volnay. It is showing well even in the 2018 vintage; somewhat warm, but extraction is kept on the low side, ensuring quite vivid fruit. Whole-cluster inclusion (15%) is giving the wine a generous profile. Quite different from the 2017, but quality-wise it is at the same level.
(Drink from 2019) – Good+ (86p) – Tasted 08/11/2019
Domaine Pierre Girardin Beaune Epenottes 2018
On the Beaune side of Epenots we find Epenottes, and it is quite a treat in the Girardin portfolio. In 2018 he used 33% whole clusters – and this gives a velvety, generous mouthfeel. Very balanced, with a warm and generous mid-palate; very Beaune, very charming and with nice energy that gives the wine a fine hedonistic glow.
(Drink from 2029) – Fine (90 – 91p) – Tasted 08/11/2019 – ?.
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