VA: Russian Roulet with Complexity and the clients’ money

I have before written about Volatile acidity, and feel a need to update this article somewhat, as I was too lenient and polite regarding this issue or fault, if you like, found in some wines.

Let’s face it, some like a very high level of VA to a level where the taste and bouquet is seriously affected. This fashion seems popular in some well-known wine bars and restaurants (apparently especially in Italy) where wines with a level of VA are served even though the VA level is well beyond the acceptable limits.

Let me state my professional view on these high VA wines. These wines have a fault and should not be served in bars and restaurants… sorry … as they tend to be unstable and volatile. Some are drinkable; others have a distinct and astringent acidity.

So, in general, the VA is detectable to many tasters at a level of 0.75 g/L and beyond … and when you pass 1 g/L then you can have more serious issues … and wines at 1.30 g/L should not be sold in shops, bars and restaurants … in my view. You simply don’t know what version you are selling – and the variation can be huge.

I accept that some of these wines can be drinkable even with some pleasure … at home, yes … but not in a professional context.

To be perfectly honest, 1.00 g/L should be your limit … otherwise you are playing Russian roulette in your restaurant or wine bar.

Some well-known producers like this sport … it’s mainly fun if the client also pays for the faulty bottles!

The VA

Volatile acidity (VA) is a part of all wines. While often negligible, at times it can create issues, or even real problems, in a wine.

With global warming, the problems with VA are increasing. Vintages like2022 and 2023 can sometimes be difficult in this regard, as the pH values are high with some producers. High pH values (3.8 or above) mean that a wine’s stability may be less certain, with high VA and Brettanomyces becoming more likely to cause serious problems.

But how does one detect volatile acidity in a barrel sample or bottle?

Measured VA

First, a recent analysis of a wine makes it easy, and you will get a precise measurement.

Some tasters are sensitive to VA, and can sense it even at lower levels; others are tolerant to relatively high levels. Tolerance does not necessarily mean the issue is overlooked, just that the influence of VA is accepted as part of the wine tasted.

VA can in theory be close to zero. But in reality, VA of below 0.5 g/L (of sulphuric acid, H2SO4) is usually not problematic, despite being detectable to very sensitive tasters. But the ability to taste levels as low as 0.2-0.3 g/L is quite unusual in my experience.

When reaching 0.5 g/L, more and more tasters start to become aware of the issue, and at 0.75 g/L, it starts to affect the character of the wine.

The taste

A wine’s taste will eventually be affected by VA, and with a wine at 0.75 g/L, one starts to feel a vivid sensation of nervousness in the wine. More volatile wines might feel forward and openly knit, with a seemingly less tight and focused core. This is where high VA can start to be problematic, as it can blur the expression of terroir.

This feeling will increase as the VA approaches 1 g/L, and at higher levels, a distinct sense of vinegar is possible. That said, commercial vinegar has a concentration of 30-90 g/L, many multiples of the acceptable level in wine.

Sensitivity towards VA is markedly different from taster to taster. I – the Winehog – am quite relaxed about VA in some wines, where I can accept levels of 1g/L or perhaps even slightly more. In other wines, I am much less tolerant. So 1g/L is my limit …

The bouquet

The olfactory signs of a high VA wine reflect the palate, from an opening vivid pinch, through a certain nervousness, and moving on to acetone and ultimately vinegar notes.

Acetone is one of the aromas often linked to high volatile acidity. Generally, it’s a sign that bacterial deviation has occurred or is occurring. It may also be linked to the cask.

An old barrel stored after burning a sulphur pastille inside for protection can produce acetic acid, acetaldehyde, and ethyl acetate if the protection is inadequate. These compounds combine to give the impression of acetone.

In any case, this masks the terroir and, for a technician (trained oenologists), is not acceptable – whereas other tasters find it suitable.

Concerning the level of volatile acidity, acetone can be identified when the VA is above 0.75 g/L, or even much higher if the perception is strong and dominant. 

So if you clearly detect acetone, the wine is likely at 1 g/L or even higher, at which point it is starting to be a problematic level.

Don’t sell these wines at this level professionally unless you are really qualified in handling this with full info to the information to the client.

Sorry, 1.3 g/L is a serious error and a fault indicating that big chances have been taken while making the wine… and often it is an indication of the presence of a somewhat lenient or even unqualified winemaker… sorry – someone needs to say this loud and clear!