I am back at Domaine Arlaud, tasting the 2020s just three months after enjoying the 2019s from bottle.
There’s no reason to repeat Arlaud’s story here, as it is available and up to date in the article about the 2019s.
Just one reminder: Domaine Arlaud is certified both BioDyvin and Agriculture Biologique (AB). It has had full biodynamic status since 2014.
The 2020s battling for phenolic ripeness
There is no doubt that the 2020 drought caused some problems with phenolic ripeness, at least in some wines and in some areas.
The best 2020s have lovely hedonistic qualities, as the fruit and energy unfold beautifully. This is the case with many of the Arlaud wines – to varying degrees. Amongst these wines, we find some true beauties.
However, some of the Arlaud wines are in malolactic fermentation, so are not evaluated this time around, as they need time to settle down.
Tasting notes from July 8
The Bourgogne Roncevie 2020 is, as always, a perfect introduction to the Arlaud line-up. It’s from Gevrey-Chambertin, coming from a parcel just outside the Gevrey appellation that produces 29,000 bottles annually (not quite that many in 2020). On the palate, there is lovely coolness and freshness. It has red zappy fruit, with fine mid-palate tension. Showing redcurrant and darker forest berries, the ripeness levels are sufficient, although not as expressive and generous as the 2019 version.
(Drink from 2022) – Good (86-87p) – tasted 09/07/2021 –
The Morey-Saint-Denis 2020 is showing the best of the vintage, with what seems to be almost perfect phenolic ripeness. It’s fresh, yet with a generous core of ripe fruit that gives this wine beautiful depth and complexity. This is a vin de soif, with a lovely hedonistic glow. I adore it.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (89-90p) – tasted 09/07/2021 –
The Chambolle-Musigny 2020 is more restrained and feels cooler – a 2020 characteristic that’s somewhat deceptive, rather than actually cool! It’s from four lieux-dits: Les Bussières, Les Chardannes, Les Herbues, and Les Gammaires in the northern part of the appellation. This is a lovely, balanced wine, but it did not quite hit the bull’s-eye like the Morey.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good (88p) – tasted 09/07/2021 –
The Nuits-Saint -Georges 2020 is from the villlage terroirs of Les Charmottes and Argillat. It shows lovely ripeness for the year; freshness and intensity without getting dark and dense or inky. There is good potential in this negoce wine sold under the Cyprien Arlaud name.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good (88p) – tasted 09/07/2021 –
The Vosne-Romanée, the Vosne-Romanée Aux Reas, and the Nuits-Saint-Georges Chaignots were still – to my palate – affected by the malo, so I will wait for a later taste. Please note this is not a problem; they just need more time.
The 1ers crus of Morey-Saint-Denis are overlooked, and it’s always a treat to taste Domaine Arlaud’s beautiful collection of these wines
The Morey-Saint-Denis Les Millandes 2020 is showing fine, cool fruit without displaying the hedonistic intensity of the Morey village. It’s cool and vivid, but is a bit more on the serious side. It does, after all, come from just below Clos de la Roche.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine (90-91p) – tasted 09/07/2021 –
From the northern end of the appellation on the border with Gevrey-Chambertin comes the Morey-Saint Denis Aux Chezeaux 2020. This is more outgoing and flamboyant, with richer fruit and fresher redcurrant and pomegranate notes.
(Drink from 2032) – Fine+ (92-93p) – tasted 09/07/2021 –
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