Visit to Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet – Tasting the 2022s

A bit about Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet

Amélie Berthaut has taken over the vineyards of Domaine Berthaut in Fixin from her father’s side, and two-thirds of her mother’s family’s vineyards from Domaine Gerbet in Vosne-Romanée. Nicolas Faure, Amélie’s husband, works as vineyard manager at Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, so a top team is in place to produce great wines.

These are hard-working people, and their dedication is paying off, in lovely and ever-improving wines.

Notes from tasting the 2022s

Amélie has done very well in 2022, producing gorgeous wines from all appellations, and showing the fruity, elegant side of the vintage.

The share of whole clusters included in the vinification has gradually been increased over the years, and the style has been adjusted carefully. The cuverie is now being expanded, increasing the possibility of using whole clusters in the wines’ elaboration.

The 2022s are another success for Amélie and Nicolas. They are delightful, expressing gorgeous fruit across the range.

The wines were tasted on December 11.

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2022

The Hautes Côtes de Nuits is close to home for Amélie Berthaut, as she lived in Vosne-Romanée as a child. The vineyards are in the hills behind Vosne, and make no mistake: With climate change, this rocky area moving west from Vosne into the Hautes Côtes and the village of Concoeur produces very good wines. The 2022 is vivid, delicate, airy, and open, with fine phenolics for this level.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (87p) – – bottled

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin 2022

This is a blend of some of the smaller and lesser Fixin vineyards. Regardless, it is a true treat, with tremendous energy for the appellation and the level. It’s showing great tension and vivacity. This is indeed a good year for Fixin.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (89p) – – bottled

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin Les Crais 2022

This is one of my favourite wines from Fixin, and also from Berthaut-Gerbet. With only 20% stems included, one could wish for a bit more, but the whole clusters nevertheless open up the bouquet and add to the wine’s silkiness. The oak is currently a bit forward over the fresh fruit. This doesn’t quite equal the magnificent 2019, but it’s still a delightful wine. (See more background on Les Crais here.)

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (89p) – – bottled

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin En Combe de Roy 2022

The Combe de Roy got a bump up in 2020 of whole-cluster inclusion, to as much as 60%. In 2022, 50% does indeed rock this boat. It has delicate, intense fruit that’s lively, with electrifying energy. This is a great Fixin, adding an additional layer of complexity to my favourite and hedonistic Crais.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (90p) – – bottled

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin Arvelats 2022

I rarely taste the Fixin Arvelets. This is, however, perhaps the best I have ever tasted! Very much on the light-footed side, it was vinified with 50% whole clusters, but only 20% new oak. It shows really energetic fruit – wow! – terrific fruit. For me, in 2022 a Fixin needed 50% whole clusters to expose a sensuality rarely tasted in the appellation.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (88-90p) –

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Vosne-Romanée 2022

A classic Vosne (a blend of Reas and Au-Dessus de la Riviere), with evident oak at the moment. It shows red and dark berries with good intensity and ripeness, along with a bouquet of Vosne spices. No whole clusters and only 20% new oak results in a lively, vivid wine.

(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (90p) –

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Gevrey-Chambertin Combe de Dessus 2022

This is fully destemmed, but delicate and quite intense for its level. It has sweet, ripe fruit with phenolics that are mature and complex. Not a big or dense wine, but thanks to the old vines, a lovely treat.

(Drink From 2029) – Very Good (90p) –

Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 2022

The Lavaux is elegant, coming from a nice plot in the northern part of the vineyard (see more here). It’s a vivid wine, and while the mid-palate is not sensational, this is nonetheless really very good, with depth and complexity. Elegant, but perhaps lacking a bit of energy.

(Drink From 2027) – Fine (92-93p) –

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