I was really happy to see more wine in the cellar at Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont after the depressingly low yields in 2016 … Axelle really deserves a break and some success after all the hard work keeping her organic certification.
Even more importantly the 2017s here are delightfully vibrant – and what they don’t have in concentration they do have in charm and energy … truly enjoyable.
Hard work .. and the easy life of the journalist
Being a wine journalist is by no means hard (although we do like to complain) – but in reality the hardships are moderate compared to the problems some growers have with climate and weather these years.
Driving from Nuits-Saint-Georges to Curtil-Vergy is a change of mindset, from the typical Burgundy village with estates, and clusters of wine growers, to the Vergy hill and to a more rough landscape. Picturing this in a winter storm makes me feel chilly even on a summer day. It takes dedication, focus and perseverance to make wine on the hill … and it does somehow shape and influence the expression of the wines ..they are proud and determined and with a lovely natural energy and beauty.
I really like to visit this small estate in the hills of Vergy to taste these organic and elegant wines.
A bit of background on Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont is a relatively small estate originating from Nuits-Saint-Georges. The estate has 6 ha in total located mainly in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation – but also with plots in Vosne-Romanée and Vergy.
The estate is related to the Machard de Gramont estate in Premeaux and the Chantal Lescure estate in Nuits-Saint-Georges.
The estate was established in 1983 by Bertrand Machard de Gramont, when the family estate was split in three parts. Bertrand until then worked the family estate after a stay at Domaine Vogüé in Chambolle-Musigny presumably working under Alain Roumier the old régisseur at Vogüé.
Axelle Machard de Gramont returned to Burgundy to take on the vigneron challenge in 2004 – and is now running the estate – with support from her father.
I really admire the work Axelle is doing – making some significant wines from some special terroirs created by her father.
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont – The 2017s
While the 2015s and the 2016s potentially are bigger wines – I do welcome and love the summer smile in the 2017 vintage here.
The yields are controlled and the organic viticulture does set it’s limits even after a troublesome year like 2016 … healthy production and a lovely quality.
The sunny smile of the 2017 vintage have reached the Vergy hill, and the fruit has a lush, sweet and vivid note of hedonistic energy in this vintage, and while not as intense as 2015 and 2016 – still with sufficient stuffing and focus to please the fans of these wines.
Big smiles from the 2017s is providing warmth to the cool Chai on the hill, and this does bring a lovely energy to the wines … what can I say – they are indeed very enjoyable.
Tasting notes from June 4th 2018
All the 2017s were more or less though malo .. and showing very well at this stage .. this vintage really likes to show off.
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Bourgogne Rouge Les Grands Chaillots 2017
This is made from a plot in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation below the road and Chailots. To be honest – this is a lovely vintage for the appellation, with the energetic and forward fruit giving the wines a casual appeal. Still a strong hint of NSG but without any austerity .. just lively fruit and a lovely depth for this level – delightful balance.
(Drink from 2021) – Good – (85 – 86p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots 2017
To me sort of a signature wine for the estate – from the Terrasses that can be seen from the N974 between NSG and Premeaux. This cuvée is back in the 2017 vintage with it’s interesting and vivid stony minerality. 20% new oak, juicy and lively red and dark fruit – very pretty and with a tremendous energy … floral and expressive. The vines are from 2000 and 2001 – so starting to show more depth and complexity … really love this terroir for it’s mineral expression.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88 – 89p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vallerots 2017
The Les Vallerots is a step up in concentration and depth – perhaps missing some of the vivid minerality of the Les Terasses de Vallerots – yet with the same vivacious fruit and energy. I do enjoy the fruit of the 2017s here – so pretty and hedonistic showing a lovely cheerful side of the appellation.
(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88 – 90p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Hauts Pruliers 2017
More classic NSG – vines planted in 1965 on a steep and shallow soil – just above Ronciére and Les Pruliers. This is hotter and offering more depth and slightly austere weight – but to be honest I prefer the two other cuvées – although I know this is perhaps the bigger wine. That being said – I do love the energy in this vintage ..
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88 – 89p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Allots 2017
This is a tremendous wine with both vivid energy and a lovely hint of Vosne terroir from the location just south of Aux Lavieres (on the Vosne-Romanée side of NSG). This area is a bit overlooked – but produces a wine with a lovely seductive energy and effortless balance. This is made from very old vines – and offers a lovely silky depth and hedonistic intensity. Quite some millerandage grapes I presume …
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (89 – 90p) – Tasted 04/06/2018
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Vosne-Romanée 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Aux Allots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Les Vallerots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Bourgogne Grands Chaillots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Aligote 2015 July 23, 2017
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