Visit Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot – tasting the 2017s from cask

A few years back one could find wines from Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot in local supermarkets in Beaune, and quite a lot of the wine from this estate was sold to negociants. Things are however changing rapidly – and the Coquard-Loison-Fleurot wines are now in high demand in more and more areas of the world. This is however in my view only the beginning – as these wines here are truly magnificent.

My journey towards Coquard-Loison-Fleurot began with tasting a 2012 Clos Vougeot in January 2015 – bought in Carrafour in Beaune in 2014.

I was quite impressed even though the oak at the time was rather forward, and I decided to explore this estate further. In November 2015 I visited Domaine Cathiard, and Sebastien Cathiard suggested that I should visit Coquard-Loison-Fleurot to taste the wines of his friend Thomas Colladot – who had worked with Cathiard before returning to the family estate.

So I tried to contact Claire Fleurot, who is running the office side of the Coquard-Loison-Fleurot estate, and after some attempts I was finally ready to visit the estate in late May of 2018.

Great to finally visit this rising star and to taste the full lineup .. such talent, such delightful wines.

A family estate

Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot is a true Burgindian family estate – and as the name suggest – the family have several branches – and presumably therefore also many different vineyards.

The families are working together with the different generations participating in the vineyard and cellar work … very cheerful and friendly vignerons.

The core people at the estate are Claire Fleurot, who is the manager and head of sales – and then the talented winemaker Thomas Colladot. They are both a part of the family and are responsible for setting the pace at the new Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot.

It’s pretty clear that the arrival of Thomas Colladot in 2010 has moved the estate into another league quality wise, and the demand for the wines is now growing rapidly.

The style has changed and the wines are now being further refined – and while Thomas Colladot has developed and refined his talent at Domaine Cathiard – he has created his own style at Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot.

The inspiration is pretty clear – the cellar is very clean and orderly … as at Domaine Cathiard, the wines offer lovely pure, juicy and refined fruit with a clear signature.

I would say that the style is lighter than Cathiard, and perhaps more towards Domaine Georges Noëllat and Domaine Comte Liger-Belair fruit wise. The oak signature is in a sense lighter than the two estates mentioned – but also with a quite light extraction … transparent and refined wines with a lovely expression of terroir.

The style is distinct with casks from Reymond – just as Domaine Cathiard. While the oak is relatively light – around 30% for the village wines to 50% – 60% for the top Grand Crus – it’s still a significant element of the style or the signature – as it is for the other top estates mentioned above.

In other words .. the best of many worlds – and while I’m sure Thomas Colladot still is developing and refining his wines, the wines are already showing great promise and tremendous quality …

If I should mention a future star in Burgundy I would mention Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot as they have both the talent and a quite unique collection of vineyards – including a large selection and proportion of Grand Crus.

With the vineyard prices going berserk in Burgundy it’s quite crucial to have top vineyards, and Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot have Grand Crus almost in abundance … with holdings in Grands Echezeaux, Echezeaux, Clos de Vougeot, Clos St. Denis, Clos de la Roche, Charmes Chambertin. A rather unique collection – and great to see a talent like Thomas Colladot unfold these terroirs.

The 2017s from Coquard-Loison-Fleurot

The 2017s from Coquard-Loison-Fleurot are lovely and generous, and the vintage is in my view a perfect match for the style of the estate.

The vintage is fruit driven, generous and charming, given a moderate yield is ensured. The old vines of the estate have not produced too high yields, and the yield management seem to have been successful in this case.

Fine intensity, vinification with a light and competent hand have maintained the freshness and energy of the fruit – providing a lineup of both refined and delicate wines.

A gorgeous collection in my view.

Tasting notes for the Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot 2017s

The Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot offer a fine progression in the portfolio, just like estates as Domaine Georges Noëllat … and with a very consistent style and impression of oak.

Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Bourgogne Rouge 2017

The Bourgogne Rouge is a lovely introduction to the house style. Lovely fruit, nicely balanced and made with a relatively light hand. The fruit is airy and vivid with a lovely intensity. A lovely glass of pinot.

(Drink from 2020) – Good+ – (86 – 87p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Chambolle-Musigny 2017

The Chambolle Musigny is not surprisingly more mineral driven – lovely classic minerality, although I must say that the style is a bit Vosne like, presumably due to the oak impression. As with Georges Noëllat Feusselottes, the Cathiard Chambolle Clos de l’Orme and the Mugneret-Gibourg Feuselottes – a Vosne influence can work very well indeed with a Chambolle terroir. A lovely village.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88 – 89p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Gevrey-Chambertin 2017

The Gevrey is from plots with old vines – 50 years old – offering juicy and almost silky fruit – both delicate and vibrant. It offers lovely length and depth, it’s however not a dense village. A lovely glass – the 2017s certainly offers a lot of charm.

(Drink from 2025) – Very Good – (88 – 89p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Vosne-Romanée 2017

Coquard make two Vosne-Romanée village cuvees, that are normally blended to one village Vosne. Both are from the Flagey side of Vosne-Romanée just south of Clos de Vougeot. Violette is one part – quite rich and generous, rather classic with plenty of fruit – elegant rather than powerful. The second part of the cuvée is from the Quartiers de Nuits section – the village part – as the top part is classified as Grand Cru and a part of the Echezeaux vineyard. This is a more serious and intense wine – with more focus and depth. It adds more weight and intensity to the cuvée taking the Vosne village to another levet of depth than the other village wines.

(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (89 – 90p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Vosne-Romanee 1er cru 2017

This is one of the pearls of the collection – a 1er cru made from Les Beaux-Monts and the lower part of the Coquard Echezeaux. These are from very old vines – 75 to 80 years – two thirds of the cuvée is from Beaux-Monts. This is a delightfully silky and sensual wine, offering the decadent opulence of the Flagey appellation – plenty of juicy fruit, Vosne spices and lovely vivid freshness. This is a truly hedonistic wine .. I love it!

(Drink from 2027) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Clos Vougeout 2017

The Clos de Vougeot is classic and very competent – fine intensity and balance. The plots are in the bottom part of Clos de Vougeot, but nevertheless displaying lovely balance and focus. For the Grand Crus 50% – 60% new oak – so stylewise more prominent. The oak is well absorbed – but will take some time to integrate fully. In my view the dose of oak is perfectly balanced.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Fine – (93 – 94p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Charmes Chambertin 2017

The Charmes Chambertin is a notch up quality wise … old vines 50 year old does yield quite intense, generous and deep wines. A lovely Charmes-Chambertin – charming and focused .. drinking very well indeed. Lovely oomph and generosity … a wine of pleasure and indulgence.

(Drink from 2029) – Very Fine – (93 – 94p) – Tasted 01/06/2018
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Tasting Notes for this producer

• Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot, Charmes Chambertin 2014 February 8, 2018
• Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot, Clos de la Roche 2010 December 15, 2017
• Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot, Vosne-Romanée 2014 June 2, 2017

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