A Thursday morning – sunny and just the sort of day where I take advantage of Brompton (my bicycle with electric support for the ‘Hog). Burgundy is now covered in autumn colours; it’s beautiful, and a delightful time of year.
It is great to be back at Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot to taste its wines and greet the nice people at this fine Flagey-Echezeaux estate, which is always a pleasure to visit.
A family estate with fine terroirs
Coquard-Loison-Fleurot has been on quite a journey. A few years back, one could find wines from the domaine in Beaune’s local supermarkets. Additionally, quite a bit of the estate’s production was sold to negociants. Things have changed, however, and dramatically: The Coquard-Loison-Fleurot wines are now much sought after in most of the world.
Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot is a true Burgundian family estate. As the name suggests, the family tree has several branches, and therefore also many different vineyards.
The families are working together, with different generations participating in the vineyard and cellar work. They are cheerful, friendly vignerons.
The core people at the estate are Claire Fleurot, manager and head of sales, and the talented winemaker Thomas Colladot. They are both part of the family group, and are responsible for setting the pace at the new iteration of Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot.
The 2020s – a surprising treat
The 2020 vintage is, like the preceding years, a warm one. But tasting the wines reveals a different expression.
To say that the 2020s are cool would be a mistake – although the acidity is good and firm, and the fruit at the best domaines has lovely freshness and the vibrant, cool energy not often seen in recent years.
The wines are “vinous,” meaning the alcohol level is – as in other hot years – on the generous side. Yet Thomas Colladot has managed to balance his wines perfectly, and while some by the numbers are on the higher side, they do not affect the pleasure of the wines.
In a word (or two), the CLF 2020s are stunningly beautiful. They’re a step up from 2017, and more likeable than the slightly dense 2018s. But, as at most other estates, they struggle to match the great 2019s.
Covid restrictions prevented me from tasting the 2019s, and I have only Thomas Colladot’s word (and a 2019 Echezeaux) as proof and witness of the greatness of the ’19s. But after a sip of the Echezeaux, and seeing the satisfied smile of the proud vigneron, I’m convinced: They are that good.
Still, to be perfectly frank, the 2020s are more than welcome in my cellar.
The 2020s from Coquard-Loison-Fleurot
The 2020s here are cool – or as cool as a hot vintage like 2020 can be. They are well balanced and energetic, with plenty of hedonistic red and dark fruit.
Make no mistake: The wines are substantial and intense, but with their fine freshness and energy, they work very well.
I have my clear favourites, but all the estate’s wines are very fine for the year. Still – and trust me on this – if you can find the special vins d’emotion, they are worth your attention. That said, it’s not always easy to get these rare cuvees.
Tasting notes on the Coquard-Loison-Fleurot 2020s
Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot offers a fine progression in its rather extended portfolio, like other estates such as Domaine Georges Noëllat. Its style is consistent, as is its use of oak.
Malolactic fermentation occurred quite late in the 2020s, and was still not over in the Charmes-Chambertin. Thus, while we tasted it, it’s not yet ready for its close-up.
With the rest, malo is done, finishing over the past six months, with some as late as earlier this month. This is not bad in any way, but it is unusual.
Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Bourgogne Rouge 2020
The Bourgogne Rouge is a nice introduction to the rest of the tasting. Fresh and vivid, with nice acidity and a red-fruit impression, the wine is substantial for its level and will provide fine restaurant drinking in its youth. From Flagey-Echezeaux vineyards below the Clos de Vougeot, it is in tune with both the estate style and vintage higher up the domaine’s range.
(Drink from 2022) – Good – (86-87p) – Tasted 21/10/2021 –
Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Chambolle-Musigny 2020
The first Chambolle-Musigny is fully destemmed and rather classic. Not even the oak gives a hint of Vosne/Flagey. The fruit is vivid, and with good tension. Not a mighty Chambolle village, but it does have a core of limestone-infused pinot. It’s showing well, yet tasting it beside the wine below gives a different perspective.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good – (88-89p) – Tasted 21/10/2021
Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Chambolle-Musigny 2020 WC
The second Chambolle village cuvee includes 40% whole clusters in the vinification. This changes the wine rather dramatically, as the whole clusters give it a silky richness that, while in a sense less detailed, is more charming and sexy. A better wine now, yes; it leaves the destemmed wine feeling a bit one-dimensional.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 21/10/2021 –
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot, Charmes Chambertin 2014 February 8, 2018
- Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot, Clos de la Roche 2010 December 15, 2017
- Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot, Vosne-Romanée 2014 June 2, 2017
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