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Visit to Domaine Georges Noëllat – tasting the 2019s from cask

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It seems that I am in a hurry. This was not originally my purpose in moving the Winehog base to Burgundy, but Covid has changed each and every plan I’ve made in the last 14 months.

So let’s get down to business: the initial comments and notes on the Georges Noëllat 2019s.

Delaying malo – a note

Something has changed in the recent years, as Maxime Cheurlin has begun cooling the cellars to delay and slow malolactic fermentation. The first wines I experienced this with were from the 2017 vintage, and it required some adaptation of my schedule as a reviewer, as they didn’t finish malo until late summer/early fall 2018, almost a year after the harvest.

I have followed Comte Georges de Vogüé for many years, and Francois Millet explains that wines attain a greater precision and complexity when malolactic fermentation is delayed. The de Vogüé wines normally complete their malos over the late summer after the air-conditioning is turned off.

Some producers have a naturally cooler cellar and therefore slower malolactic fermentation; Sebastien Cathiard sees malo completed the following fall for his slowest wine (usually the Malconsorts). Amelie Berthaut is another producer with slow malolactic fermentation, hence tasting in summer is difficult.

Normally, this is how it is, and I have rarely comparatively tasted wines with earlier malo versus later. But it’s different in the case of Domaine Georges Noëllat, as I have tasted Maxime Cheurlin’s first vintages with earlier malo, and now the more recent vintages with later.

So what is the difference, based on my experience with the 2017, 2018, and 2019s? In my preliminary view, it seems the wines are a bit firmer and more precise with the later malo, and this could – perhaps – translate into more complexity. One could also say that they have a slightly darker note. It is, however, too soon to draw firm conclusions.

The 2019s from Domaine Georges Noëllat

Based on my tasting in February, Maxime has a very fine 2019 line-up – like many other top growers. Slightly hot, but seductive and decadent, this is a charming vintage in the making.

Notes from the tasting on February 9

The first wine, the Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2019, is showing fine, relatively cool promise, coming from the Curtil-Vergy area above Nuits-Saint-Georges – or Vosne, if you prefer. The nose offers generous, vivid fruit, and shows fine intensity. On the palate, there is zappy fruit and acidity; this a warm vintage, but also a lively one.

(Drink from 2021) – Very Good – (88p) –

The Beaune Tuivilains 2019 was closed down in early February, and with quite a reductive note. It does have lovely fruit, and the oak balance is good, with its limited toast. A bit difficult to evaluate currently – sorry.

To Vosne-Romanée, the Vosne-Romanee 2019 is not overly talkative, but has a nice vivid appearance underneath its medium-weight mid-palate. On the bouquet, fine red fruit – raspberries, varieties of cherries, and some fresh elements of redcurrant and cloudberries – mixes with plenty of Vosne spices. On the palate, fine, delicate fruit that is weighty and precise with good energy. I love the seductive, velvety character of this wine.

(Drink from 2028) – Fine+ – (90-92p) –

Beaune Clos de la Mignotte 2019 is one of the estate’s newer wines, having made its first appearance in 2016. It is a small monopole located just south of Aux Cras, and it continues the vivid character of the previous 2019s. The zappy dimension gives a lovely liveliness to the Beaune wines.

(Drink from 2028) – Fine+ – (92-93p) –

The Nuits-Saint-Georges Boudots 2019 is a sheer sensual beauty, with perfumed 2019 notes blasting from the glass. Red and pink roses – in a Boudots! – and effortless, delicate mid-palate fruit really shows the quality of this wine. Magnificent, sensual impression.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine – (92-94p) –

A rare bird, the Morey-Saint-Denis Monts Luisants 1er cru 2019 is from the plot above the grand cru Clos de la Roche. This is more mineral and vivid, coming as it does from high on the slope. It’s somewhat reduced, with blueberries showing off in the bouquet. Not quite a match for the sensual Boudots at the moment – but we shall see.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine – (92-94p)


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