Winehog - Burgundy with a passion

Burgundy Insights from the Winehog

Visit to Domaine Georges Noëllat – tasting the 2019s from cask

By -

It seems that I am in a hurry. This was not originally my purpose in moving the Winehog base to Burgundy, but Covid has changed each and every plan I’ve made in the last 14 months.

So let’s get down to business: the initial comments and notes on the Georges Noëllat 2019s.

Delaying malo – a note

Something has changed in the recent years, as Maxime Cheurlin has begun cooling the cellars to delay and slow malolactic fermentation. The first wines I experienced this with were from the 2017 vintage, and it required some adaptation of my schedule as a reviewer, as they didn’t finish malo until late summer/early fall 2018, almost a year after the harvest.

I have followed Comte Georges de Vogüé for many years, and Francois Millet explains that wines attain a greater precision and complexity when malolactic fermentation is delayed. The de Vogüé wines normally complete their malos over the late summer after the air-conditioning is turned off.

Some producers have a naturally cooler cellar and therefore slower malolactic fermentation; Sebastien Cathiard sees malo completed the following fall for his slowest wine (usually the Malconsorts). Amelie Berthaut is another producer with slow malolactic fermentation, hence tasting in summer is difficult.

Normally, this is how it is, and I have rarely comparatively tasted wines with earlier malo versus later. But it’s different in the case of Domaine Georges Noëllat, as I have tasted Maxime Cheurlin’s first vintages with earlier malo, and now the more recent vintages with later.

So what is the difference, based on my experience with the 2017, 2018, and 2019s? In my preliminary view, it seems the wines are a bit firmer and more precise with the later malo, and this could – perhaps – translate into more complexity. One could also say that they have a slightly darker note. It is, however, too soon to draw firm conclusions.

The 2019s from Domaine Georges Noëllat

Based on my tasting in February, Maxime has a very fine 2019 line-up – like many other top growers. Slightly hot, but seductive and decadent, this is a charming vintage in the making.

Notes from the tasting on February 9

The first wine, the Hautes Côtes de Nuits 2019, is showing fine, relatively cool promise, coming from the Curtil-Vergy area above Nuits-Saint-Georges – or Vosne, if you prefer. The nose offers generous, vivid fruit, and shows fine intensity. On the palate, there is zappy fruit and acidity; this a warm vintage, but also a lively one.

(Drink from 2021) – Very Good – (88p) –

The Beaune Tuivilains 2019 was closed down in early February, and with quite a reductive note. It does have lovely fruit, and the oak balance is good, with its limited toast. A bit difficult to evaluate currently – sorry.

To Vosne-Romanée, the Vosne-Romanee 2019 is not overly talkative, but has a nice vivid appearance underneath its medium-weight mid-palate. On the bouquet, fine red fruit – raspberries, varieties of cherries, and some fresh elements of redcurrant and cloudberries – mixes with plenty of Vosne spices. On the palate, fine, delicate fruit that is weighty and precise with good energy. I love the seductive, velvety character of this wine.

(Drink from 2028) – Fine+ – (90-92p) –

Beaune Clos de la Mignotte 2019 is one of the estate’s newer wines, having made its first appearance in 2016. It is a small monopole located just south of Aux Cras, and it continues the vivid character of the previous 2019s. The zappy dimension gives a lovely liveliness to the Beaune wines.

(Drink from 2028) – Fine+ – (92-93p) –

The Nuits-Saint-Georges Boudots 2019 is a sheer sensual beauty, with perfumed 2019 notes blasting from the glass. Red and pink roses – in a Boudots! – and effortless, delicate mid-palate fruit really shows the quality of this wine. Magnificent, sensual impression.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine – (92-94p) –

A rare bird, the Morey-Saint-Denis Monts Luisants 1er cru 2019 is from the plot above the grand cru Clos de la Roche. This is more mineral and vivid, coming as it does from high on the slope. It’s somewhat reduced, with blueberries showing off in the bouquet. Not quite a match for the sensual Boudots at the moment – but we shall see.

(Drink from 2032) – Very Fine – (92-94p)


Want to see the rest…?

You need to login to read the rest of the article. If you are not a subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.

Login

You need a Winehog subscription to see the rest of this article.
Login

Subscribe

You need a Winehog subscription to see the rest of this article.
Subscribe

Related articles

  • Visit to Domaine Georges Noëllat – tasting the 2019s from cask
    It seems that I am in a hurry. This was not originally my purpose in moving the Winehog base to Burgundy, but Covid has changed each and every plan I’ve made in the last 14 months. So let’s get down to business: the initial comments and notes on the Georges Noëllat 2019s. Delaying malo – a note Something ...
  • Visit Domaine Georges Noëllat – tasting the 2018s from cask
    In the article about the 2015 vintage at Domaine Georges Noëllat, I wrote: “Immense talent and effortlessness …” This is still the theme of this article and my tasting of the 2018s. I have followed Domaine Georges Noëllat since the 2012 vintage, and have been consistently amazed by the effortless nature of the wines from Maxime ...
  • Visit Domaine Georges Noëllat – tasting of the 2017s from Cask
    Domaine Georges Noëllat is one of my favourite estates these days – and it seems like Maxime Cheurlin is improving year after year. Wines are getting more detailed and the integration of the oak has improved over the years and is now seamless. The 2017s at Domaine Georges Noëllat is showing very well, as with other ...
  • Notes and comments to visits in May 2018
    The 2017s are showing beautifully in most cases – considering it’s rather early in the elevage. Malo in most cases were finished very or fairly early, and reds are given the nature of the vintage made with a rather light hand – also making the wines easier to taste at this stage. In my view it’s ...
  • Visit Domaine Georges Noëllat – tasting of the 2016s from Cask
    Domaine Georges Noëllat is one of my favourite estates these days – and it seems like Maxime Cheurlin is improving year after year. Wines are getting more detailed and the integration of the oak has improved over the years and is now seamless. Maxime and his neighbour Sebastien Cathiard are really upping the game – and ...

Vins d’émotion – wines that offer joy and hedonistic thrills

The principle with vins d’emotion is that they bring you extraordinary joy and hedonistic thrills.  A wine can be great, and at the same time not quite be a vin d’emotion.

All wines that evoke these emotional responses deserve a recommendation, and I have therefore created four levels of emotion recommendation: from the true and rare vin d’émotion to wines with some emotional potential.

A true vin d’émotion – a Burgundy of passion

A truly hedonistic wine – lively and enjoyable

A vivacious wine for pure indulgance

Check the full rating system
—

Read the original Vin d’émotion article here ..

Save 40% on the Winehog Premium subscription

Time to Subscribe?

Winehog offer - save 20%

€782 year
Two years with full access to Winehog
 
Sign up Now