What a week, tasting with names like Charles Lachaux, Comte Georges de Vogue, Grivot, and finally Robert Groffier, where Nicolas has produced fantastic wines equalling his very best vintages.
Nicolas Groffier did very well with the 2018s, but his 2019s are even better: fresher, more gourmand, more hedonistic and simply more vin d’émotion.
Lively acidity on the palate and in the finish makes 2019s great if all the usual main qualities are in place. One essential step was to keep ripeness and alcohol under control, and Nicolas has done a great job with that. Hence the wines are effortless and lightfooted, yet with all the intensity and complexity one could ask for. The Winehog can always ask for more (magnums, of course), but the Groffiers work very well indeed – also for me!
So, to the notes …
The 2019s from Domaine Robert Groffier
Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains 2019
The Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains is from the Morey side of the estate. It is almost pure pinot, with only about 10% spicy Gamay. Let’s just say that this is both a vivid and a lively Passe-tout-grain, with the 2019 acidity keeping things vivacious. It is one of my favourites amongst the 2019 Passe-tout-grains I have tasted, so why complicate things?
(Drink from 2021) – Good – (86-87p) – Tasted 12/02/2021 –
Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne Rouge 2019
The Bourgogne Rouge is a step up in depth and complexity; as usual, two thirds of the fruit is from vineyards below the Clos de Vougeot. Gorgeous fruit, with lovely summery sweetness and notes of ripe strawberries and raspberries; rather intense for this level. Ever so slightly reduced initially, a quick swirl in the glass reveals the wine fully. Vivid fruit, with quite a cool, forward character. This is a delightful Bourgogne, and is high on my list of affordable 2019s.
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good+ – (88p) – Tasted 12/02/2021 –
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