Visit to Marchand-Tawse and Domaine Tawse – Tasting the 2020s

It’s always a privilege to meet my vigneron neighbour in Nuits-Saint-Georges, as the Tawse winery is located in my backyard.

Pascal Marchand is one of the most knowledgeable vignerons in Burgundy, and it’s a treat to hear his views based in vast knowledge and long experience. This is how we learn.

Aside from this, Pascal is also a tremendous winemaker, and even with bought grapes he is able to produce wines of impressive quality.

When we reach the top domaine wines the quality level rises further. For me, Marchand-Tawse (negoce) and Domaine Tawse are somewhat overlooked.

And let’s not forget, Pascal has great help from his co-winemaker Mark Fincham, a very capable vigneron himself.

The qualities of the Marchand-Tawse estate(s)

The main quality of the wines made by and under Pascal Marchand is drinkability: They drink well and bring pleasure. These are basic, but necessary, qualities of a vin d’émotion.

Pascal Marchand can take negociant wines – the terroirs, the grapes – and reveal their qualities like few others. Some wines have emotional characteristics, others not. But if they are there in potential, chances are the team at Marchand-Tawse will find them.

The 2020s chez Marchand-Tawse

The 2020s showed very well here. This year I asked to taste only 30 samples, as I find that tasting more than that overwhelms my palate.

Marchand-Tawse Bourgogne Côte d’Or 2020

The Bourgogne Cote d’Or is a delightful wine; 60% comes from the Cote de Nuits. It shows good concentration, with 20% whole clusters spicing things up. It’s a big cuvee, with 16,000 bottles made, and is drinking very well for this level.

(Drink From 2022) – Good (85-86p) – tasted 08/12/2021

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Marchand-Tawse Bourgogne 47N 2020

The 47N is named by the geographical location (latitude) of Burgundy. It includes 10% whole clusters, and is quite a step up in intensity. It’s deep and slightly inky, with a powerful, masculine style. The grapes are from Marsannay, Vosne-Romanee, Cote de Nuits Villages, and Savigny-les-Beaune, and there are 4,500 bottles produced. Am I seduced? Not quite.

(Drink From 2023) – Good (86-87p) – tasted 08/12/2021

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Domaine Tawse Bourgogne Vigne Blanche 2020

This is a domaine wine which comes from the edge of the alluvial fan emerging from Lavaut Saint Jacques; more precisely, next to Platieres. The Vigne Blanche is destemmed, made with 30% new oak, and has lovely mid-palate energy. It also has a lovely hedonistic feel, and is my clear favourite of the generic wines from Tawse.

(Drink From 2024) – Good (87p) – tasted 08/12/2021 –

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Marchand-Tawse Côte de Nuits Villages 2020

From the core terroirs of Cote de Nuits Villages in Corgoloin, this uses 65% whole clusters and 15% new oak. The high whole-cluster share really gives a characterful wine with lovely energy and liveliness. Somewhat more than 4,000 bottles are produced, with a good hedonistic feel.

(Drink From 2024) – Very Good (87-88p) – tasted 08/12/2021

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Marchand-Tawse Marsannay 2020

This comes from En la Poulotte in Couchey, with 20% whole clusters and only 10% new oak. As often, this is on the deep side expression-wise, and is borderline inky, showing intense, deep, mid-palate fruit with good juiciness. However, this terroir rarely seduces the ‘Hog.

(Drink From 2026) – Good (87p) – tasted 08/12/2021

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Marchand-Tawse Nuits-Saint-Georges 2020

The Nuits-Saint-Georges come from various vineyards surrounding the town, and is a signature wine of Maison Marchand-Tawse. In this cuvee are grapes from Charmottes and Lavieres north of the village and Plante aux Baron to the south. It’s showing perfect ripeness, with no inkiness or excessive darkness, good liveliness and freshness. This is 100% destemmed, and uses 15% new oak. A lovely expression of NSG village.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted 08/12/2021 –

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Marchand-Tawse Chambolle-Musigny 2020

From the area below Chambolle Charmes, and the climat Les Barbilleres, this uses 10% whole clusters and 30% new oak. It has lovely mid-palate energy despite the oak being a bit generous at the moment. Still, it offers lovely Chambolle character and lift. I love the spicy notes; they are quite seductive, with more lieu-dit character than the NSG village.

(Drink From 2028) – Very Good (88-89p) – tasted 08/12/2021 –

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Domaine Tawse Gevrey-Chambertin 2020

One of the wines from the former Domaine Maume vines, and made at least partly from the Maume Clone: a special selection massale made at the Maume estate back in the day. This combines fruit from seven or eight vineyards: Combe de Lavaux, La justice, Es Murots, Les Grandes Rayes, Les Roncevies, La Combe du Dessus, and Clos Prieur Bas. There were 25 barrels made, using 20% whole clusters and 20% new oak. It’s spicy and organic with a lively orange tone created by hints of cloudberries, a trait often found in the Maume Clone. What a delightful vine; I adore it.

(Drink From 2032) – Very Good (89-91p) – tasted 08/12/2021 –

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Domaine Tawse Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois 2020

Aux Etelois is located north of Charmes-Chambertin and below Griotte-Chambertin, and is also part of the old Maume estate that was taken over by Marchand-Tawse. This parcel was replanted in the 1970s, and (according to my palate) not wholly with the Maume Clone. It uses 50% new oak and is completely destemmed, and while airy and intense, it lacks the organic feel coming from the Maume Clone. Good energy nevertheless.

(Drink From 2034) – Very Good (89p) – tasted 08/12/2021 –

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Domaine Tawse Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roi 2020

The Clos du Roi is made with 50% whole clusters, and given 20% new oak. There are lovely smoky and saline notes, and delightful depth and intensity. Nice minerality underscores the Beaune character (if there is such a thing). Good freshness, and the lightness has been maintained.

(Drink From 2032) – Very Good+ (89-91p) – tasted 08/12/2021

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Domaine Tawse Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavieres 2020

The Savigny Lavieres has delicate fruit, yet is deep and intense, with a warm greeting from the 80-year-old vines. With 50% whole clusters and 25% new oak, it’s juicy and lively; borderline emotional. Actually, why not?

(Drink From 2033) – Very Good+ (90p) – tasted 08/12/2021 –

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