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Burgundy Insights from the Winehog

Visit Domaine de la Romanée-Conti – tasting of the 2015s from cask

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Sitting in my car writing these tasting notes, while I’m overlooking La Tâche .. -7.5 Celsius .. but with a inner warmth of the aftertaste of Romanée-Conti 2015 .. a truly memorable moment of Burgundian beauty.

Just out from a lovely tasting of the 2015s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti with Bernard Noblet the legendary cellarmaster. I do hope Mr. Noblet survived my terrible French pronunciation and that I do his insights and the wines full justice with my scribblings below …

The 2015s from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti are not surprisingly magnificent offering the fine virtues of the best 2015s – they are indeed intense and largely framed wines but they are also very vibrant and refined – despite the power and intensity they also offer.

I must say I was immensely impressed by the balance in the wines and how cool and airy the wines have turned out despite the quite hot conditions in 2015.

In my view this vibrant and delicate balance between power and refinement could well (at least partly) be the result of the biodynamic viticulture now practiced at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Biodynamic viticulture the key to balance

Bernard Noblet explained they have worked after the bio-dynamical principles since 2008, and even before this DRC did pilot tests in certain plots to see if the biodynamic approach improved the quality of both the soil and the wines.

The results are according to Noblet very visible in the vineyards with a very rich and lively microbiology in the soil and in the vineyard, and less need to treat the vineyards as the vines now are stronger and more healthy.

Furthermore the biodynamic approach has translated into better wines – the balance of the wines has improved – with better PH and acidity – a better tension and energy, offering a better inner balance and detail than before the conversion to biodynamic viticulture.

To be honest it left me with a very strong impression that Bernard Noblet – a man who has made wines for decades – spoke so warmly and enthusiastically about the biodynamic viticulture and methods.

It’s great to see how innovative and open-minded the people at Domaine de la Romanee-Conti are – indeed an inspiration to both the wine drinkers and the the other vignerons of the region.

In my view this is yet another statement supporting the positive effects of biodynamic viticulture … and the results are similar to the ones reported by other biodynamic producers.

Tasting of the 2015s from DRC

The wines were tasted Tuesday January 24th – on a cold leaf day – so perhaps not under the most ideal circumstances, as the low temperatures in the cellar and presumably also the moon can bring the tannins a bit forward in the wines. The wines were nevertheless quite accessible .. some expressing more of the 2015 richness than others.

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Corton 2015
The Corton was the first to be havested at DRC – it comes from a blend of Corton Clos du Roy, Les Bressandes and Les Renardes This is a wine offering a focused and quite serious side of the Corton appellation – with plenty of balance and refinement. The nose offer primarily dark berry fruit – very pure with some licorice notes and a quite discrete impression of oak. On the palate quite intense mid-palate fruit – powerful yet refined – with plenty of structure and with a lovely balancing acidity. A very balanced effort with a fine delicate freshness and a vivid energy. Outstanding (95 – 96p)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 2015
The Echezeaux was the last wine harvested in the 2015 vintage – but still on the cool side it seems. This is a big Echezeaux with plenty of stuffing. The nose offer red but predominantly darker fruits currently – notes of cassis, boysenberries and blueberries – the oak somewhat forward and a slight reduction. On the palate ample fruit – the fruit is juicy transparent and quite cool with a fine balancing freshness. It’s a quite velvet and rich wine .. this is a big Echezeaux in the making Outstanding (95 – 96p).

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Grands-Echezeaux 2015
The Grands Echezeaux has an outgoing personality with plenty of juicy ripe fruit – still with the freshness and balance very much intact. The nose is bursting with fruit – notes of blueberries, boysenberries, cassis and red currant – brought forward by the earthy minerality of this generous terroir. On the palate generous with ample layers of juicy fruit .. lovely playful tension between fresh red fruit and the more silky and weighty darker aromas. A gorgeous Grands Echezeaux in the making. Outstanding+ (96 – 97p)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée Saint-Vivant 2015
This is a sensual, delicate and feminine wine .. with a temperament .. as Noblet explained when he described the firmness in the finish as the feel of Catwomans nails. In the bouquet intense and juicy fruit – pure and vibrant notes of red and dark berry fruit – more perfumed and delicate than the two Flagey wines. On the palate very refined with a beautiful core of juicy mid-palate fruit – sensual and sexy – and with a firm “bite” in the finish to contrast the silkiness and delicacy. Extraordinary (97 – 98p)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Richebourg 2015
This is a very structured wine with a very expressive spiciness – classic Richebourg offering plenty of airy fruit and a cool and vibrant side of the 2015 vintage. The nose is bursting with cool red and dark fruit and almost exploding with Vosne spices – violets, peony rose, rose petals. On the palate largely framed with a elegant and structured mid-palate fruit – transparent and very floral for a 2015 Richebourg. This is an extraordinary Richebourg in the making, as the delightful airy balance is a great achievement in this vintage. Extraordinary (97 – 98p)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, La Tâche 2015
La Tâche is a expressive and outgoing wine with exuberant fruit focused by the mighty mineral framework of this great terroir and a fine balancing freshness from a the combination of a fine ph and a good acidity. The nose offers layers of juicy and cool fruit – a selection of red and dark forest berries – boysenberries, cassis and raspberries invigorated with red currant and pomegranate. On the palate plenty of power with layers of quite openly knit fruit – very generous – yet still focused by the firm and powerful mineral backbone. This is a big La Tâche .. and while it may not ultimately rival the mighty 1990 La Tâche .. it’s most certainly in the same league. Extraordinary+ (98 – 99p)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Conti 2015
As Bernard Noblet explained this is a wine from another world than the other wines of DRC. In 2015 this is indeed true – the detail, the refinement, the filigree sensuality is out of this world or perhaps even this Solar system. The bouquet is vibrating with filigree impressions of spices, red and dark fruit notes – elegantly expressed as the most fragrant, refined and enchanting perfume. This is finesse and delicacy – presented in the most effortless and zen like way. On the palate powerful yet very delicate offering layers upon layers of juicy and vibrant fruit – the inner energy and balance is mind-bending – as the wine caresses the palate .. this is perfection in my view – just so sensual and filigree. A Legendary (99 – 100p) wine in the making.

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