Visit to Domaine Duroché – Tasting the 2022s

The 2022 vintage from Pierre Duroché is a treat. His early harvest has produced vivid, energetic wines (not quite as great as the 2019s) with a cool beauty that makes them hard to resist, especially when you climb the cru ladder.

Pierre Duroché made some tremendous 2015s and 2016s, lovely 2017s, and even the hot 2018s had fine balance. The ’19s took Domaine Duroché to a new level, they were that good. The 2021s were full of finesse, and the 2022s follow this path; bigger yes, but still on the elegant, delicate side.

The Duroché line-up increases exponentially in quality. When one reaches the big guns, the combination of terroir, intensity, and delicacy reaches a zen-like level of hedonistic pleasure. Wines like the Lavaut St. Jacques VV, Latricieres-Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Beze (not to mention Griotte-Chambertin and Le Chambertin) all display the true emotional side of Gevrey. This is rare, and a tremendous treat.

Tasting notes

The reds start with Domaine Duroché Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022, a vivid, lively wine displaying the delicate, cool side of the vintage. Actually, there was nothing truly cool about 2022 (these are the times of global warming), but the Duroché wines are cooler than most, having been picked early. A slight rhubarb impression combines with raspberries and red cherries to give this wine an enjoyable note. The 15% new oak firms it up a bit. This is a true vin de soif!

(Drink From 2024) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 20/11/2023 –

Next up is the Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 2022 village, a large cuvée, as some of the lieux-dits have been assembled in 2022 due to weather conditions. (Note: Vines remember weather challenges, and a year with low yields often gives higher ones in the following years if the vines have optimal conditions. Hail damage can influence yields for more than a year if the vines suffer badly.) This is a vivid and tense wine that’s cool and delicate. It’s a wine for drinking and enjoyment. Don’t expect an explosion of ripe fruit and depth. This is more on the lively side.

(Drink From 2026) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 20/11/2023 –

The village Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois 2022 is quite a step up. The lieu-dit is located on the southern side of Griotte-Chambertin beside Claude Dugat’s parcel, and below Duroché’s Griotte. Vivid, with riper phenolics, this is transparent, although with a more substantial mid-palate. The lovely bouquet is oozing with red and dark fruit.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Good – (90p) – Tasted 20/11/2023 –

Following on is the delightful Domaine Duroché Lavaut St. Jacques 2022 (there is also a Lavaut Vieilles Vignes – see below). It is elegant, with fresh fruit, fine acidity, and a vivid stance. The nose brims with strawberry and raspberry notes. This has good minerality and depth, however don’t taste it after the the Vieilles Vignes.

(Drink From 2030) – Very Fine – (93-94p) – Tasted 20/11/2023 –

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