Vogüé time! As mentioned before, in Denmark we have a fine tradition of Jean-Luc Pepin visiting each year in September or October to present the newly released de Vogüé lineup in Copenhagen.
Add to this some nice dinners, and we have what we call de Vogüé week; a lovely time enjoying Burgundian – and especially de Vogüé – wines with Jean-Luc Pepin.
The theme for this year’s event is of course the charming 2017 vintage – one I have reviewed a couple of times from cask.
The 2017 de Vogüé wines tasted from bottle
This year, I was sadly unavailable to participate in the professional tasting. However Vinrosen, the Danish importer of the estate’s wines, kindly let me taste them at a private-customer event. Please note therefore that while the two rare birds – the Musigny Blanc and Les Amoureuses – are missing from this report, I’m sure they are good.
I’m very happy to repport that the 2017s are matching my optimistic expectations for the development of this delightful vintage. The wines are showing amazingly well!
The 2017s from Comte Georges de Vogüé
As always, Jean-Luc Pepin explained the details of the vintage … traditions must be upheld.
Here we go … (quoting from my article on the cask tasting)
“The 2017 vintage at de Vogüé comes after the frosted 2016 vintage, and is a much larger vintage – de Vogüé lost 70% of the harvest in 2016. The 2017 harvest is pretty normal quantity-wise.
Vogüé was very careful regarding yields in 2017, as the growth in the vineyards was very strong after the frost in 2016. The yield at de Vogüé was held at 30-35 hl/ha in 2017, so around normal, although more than some of the limited years. The harvest started relatively early, on September 2, 2017.”
To the notes …
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle Musigny 2017
The Chambolle village is very charming and open – a delightful collection of Chambolle minerals. The fruit is delicate and ripe, open and forward with lively acidity. Delightful freshness and effortless balance, with red currant and hints of rhubarb. Very vivacious.
(Drink from 2028) – Very Good – (89 – 91p) – Tasted 21/09/2019
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle Musigny 1er cru 2017
The 1er cru is made from Musigny vines younger than 25 years. In 2017 this was 0.75 ha of Musigny – but in 2019 it’s down to 0.50 ha as the vines are maturing. On the day, the 1er is even more open, with very vivid fruit – sorbet fruit, with a hint of rhubarb and blueberries. This is tremendous juice. Quite a step up in density from the village – perfumed notes of raspberries and limestone with delicate intensity, blueberries and blackberries and some intense calcaire in a lovely mineral lift. Silky, velvety finish.
(Drink from 2030) – Fine+ – (92 – 93p) – Tasted 21/09/2019
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares 2017
The Bonnes Mares is really shining with its deep and silky fruit. The nose is a bit darker, but very sensual – perfumed with blue iris and blackberries – and very refined. Delightfully fresh acidity gives the wine effortless balance. Silky/velvety with delicate floral notes. This is a gorgeous Bonnes Mares.
(Drink from 2030) – Very Fine+ – (94 – 95p) – Tasted 21/09/2019
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