Domaine de la Pousse d’Or: The Northern Delights Plus Puligny

Via Patrick Landanger’s dedication, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or has expanded significantly from its original Santenay/Volnay base.

Beginning in 1997, Landanger acquired some significant plots on the Corton hill; first, 0.48 hectare of Corton Bressandes from Jaboulet-Vercherre, and then 3 ha of Corton Clos du Roi, of which half remains rented to Louis Latour due to an old fermage contract. The Clos du Roi was acquired from a British lady – Madame Crosby – related to the Latour family.

In total, Pousse d’Or currently produces Corton from 1.93 ha, with 1.45 ha of that in Clos du Roi.

Following on in his acquisitions, in 2004 Landanger bought a plot of Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets from Domaine Chartron. The parcel is 0.73 ha in the core of the vineyard.

Then in 2008, Landanger acquired Domaine Moine-Hudelot in Chambolle-Musigny. This domaine was owned by one of Chambolle’s former mayors, who had already sold some Musigny plots to Domaine Leroy in 1990.

With the Moine-Hudelot purchase, Landanger got some Bonnes Mares, Amoureuses, Charmes, Groseilles, and Feusselottes – along with a decent village holding covering 1.4 ha.

But the purchases continued. In 2009, Landanger acquired a plot in Clos de la Roche, followed in 2017 by a fine, 0.2039-ha plot in Chevalier-Montrachet bought from Maison Olivier Leflaive.

Most recently, Patrick’s son, Benoit Landanger, has purchased further plots in Echezeaux and Gevrey-Chambertin Perrière. These are not yet being sold under the Pousse d’Or label.

Thus this is becoming a large, important domaine, with seven grands crus, three monopoles, and 11 1ers crus – 17 hectares in total.

The tasting notes

Please note – the wines were getting ready for bottling – hence samples taken from the tanks.

Domaine de La Pousse d’Or Corton Bressandes 2020

Clearly grand cru level, this is deep, intense, airy, and not at all inky. It is, however, well structured and relatively tightly knit compared with the amphorae wines. I would love to see an amphorae version of this.

(Drink from 2037) – Very Fine – (93p)

---

Domaine de La Pousse d’Or Corton Clos Du Roi 2020

Quite a step up from the Bressandes. More precise and quite floral, it’s open and airy with tremendous acidity. I love the energetic mid-palate fruit and the notes of yellow flowers – fresh and sensual, with precise minerality. That said, I think an amphorae version would set this wine free and enhance its fine, perfumed notes.

(Drink from 2038) – Very Fine+ – (94-95p) –

---

Domaine de La Pousse d’Or Chambolle-Musigny 2020

The Chambolle village comes from seven plots distributed around the Chambolle appellation -1.4 ha in total. The domaine style goes well with the Chambolle character and minerality, producing a vivid, refined wine. It’s a big village, with the 2020 fruit really showing its strengths.

(Drink from 2030) – Very Good – (90p) –

You need to login as a Premium subscriber to read the rest of this article. If you are not a Premium Subscriber, use the subscribe function and sign-up.