There are a lot of wine estates in the small village of Volnay – many of them with confusingly similar names. This has caused importers some trouble over the years, although now the online presence of most of the domaines shows both the labels and the people behind the estate.
Domaine Georges Glantenay is now a sister-and-brother joint venture, with Sarah in charge of sales and Guillaume in charge of viticulture and winemaking.
As is not uncommon in Volnay, there is more than one estate bearing the Glantenay name, and I would assert that Domaine Georges Glantenay is one of two best-known – the other being Domaine Bernard and Thierry Glantenay.
With its qualitative progress in recent years, Domaine Georges Glantenay is (for me) edging ahead in the “race” between the two Glantenay estates. Tasting the 2020s confirmed this opinion.
In truth, however, it is not a race. Still, I feel compelled to say that I really enjoy the delicate and drinkable style of Domaine Georges Glantenay’s wines.
The 2020s – lively and vivid
The 2019 and 2020 wines are vivid and lively, and as the years pass, Guillaume gets better and better at his job. He has enough experience now that he feels confident in experimenting a bit. This is good, as the wines here are both lovely, and with a hedonistic quality that holds a bright promise for the future.
The wines are enjoyable, but make no mistake: They strike a fine, delightful balance between complexity and drinkability.
The 2019s are more flamboyant and exuberant than the 2020s, with their more more classical stance. It was still quite a hot vintage in ’20, but an early harvest ensured a beautiful balance in the Georges Glantenay wines. The 2020s rarely strike one as hot, and with their beautiful fresh fruit, vivid acidity, and inherent energy, one can’t go far wrong here.
As always, the 2019-vs-2020 battle is a close-run thing; but somehow I prefer the 2020s at Domaine Georges Glantenay.
And so, to the cellar!
Domaine Georges Glantenay Bourgogne Rouge Maison Dieu 2020
The Bourgogne Rouge Maison Dieu is from old vines – 45-80 years – and this explains the lovely complexity of this regional wine. Georges Glantenay has 1.85 ha of this, yielding 10,000-15,000 bottles depending on the year. The lieux-dits are Les Grandes Terres, Les Monpoulain, Les Vèves, Les Petits Prés, Les Saussots, Les Lameroses and Les Taupes Maison Dieu. Vinified with seven days of cold soak and 100% destemmed grapes, this is a forward, fruity wine. The vinification is done without sulphur, and the result is a pure, lively wine with an enjoyable, fruity, mid-palate. The 2020 is more serious than the 2019, as the freshness from the vivid acidity gives good focus, energy, and tension. Classic, yet hedonistic even at this level – bravo! A brilliant generic Bourgogne.
(Drink from 2022) – Good – (87p) – Tasted 01/03/2022 –
Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay 2020
The Volnay village is an assembly of several plots: Les Aussy, Les Petits Gamets, La Gigotte, Les Buttes, Robardelles, Les Grands Poisots, En Echards and Les Combes are included. Glantenay produces two Volnay village cuvées: this, and a vieilles vignes – and there is quite a difference. The regular Volnay is showing well; it is aged in 20% new oak and is lively, fresh, and delicate, coming from 20- to 60-year-old vines. A delightful generic Volnay, classic, and offering fine drinking. Vin de soif? Why not!
(Drink from 2025) – Good – (88p) – Tasted 01/03/2022 –
Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2020
The Volnay VV is a bigger, deeper, and more serious. The 2019 is sexier, but the 2020 has a different – perhaps even more appealing – depth to the fruit. These are very old vines indeed (the oldest planted in 1932), giving a sumptuous, rich, deep, mid-palate. A hedonistic treat once again, but it requires your attention – and deserves it.
(Drink from 2032) – Very Good+ – (89-91p) – Tasted 01/03/2022 –
Domaine Georges Glantenay Pommard 2020
The Pommard village is from plots in Les Riottes, Le Poisot, and Les Combes Dessous. This is an elegant, quite deep village showing truly lovely energy and vivid fruit. The 2020 has a fine, classical stance, with a generous mid-palate, but perhaps lacking a bit of the 2019 liveliness. This always has lovely balance, and is a fine expression of Pommard terroir.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (89-90p) – Tasted 01/03/2022 –
Domaine Georges Glantenay Volnay 1er Cru Le Ronceret 2020
Volnay Ronceret is located low on the slope, below En Champans. This is a charming wine, ethereal, lightly perfumed, and a cool girl with a refined, almost Parisian, charm. Its variations on raspberries are very sensual, and it’s a vin d’émotion in its delicacy. Delicious, and one of my favourites, if not…
(Drink from 2032) – Fine – (92p) – Tasted 01/03/2022 –
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