I have the privilege of tasting Thibault Morey’s wines more than once a year – a treat and luxury I am not accustomed to as a wine journalist or, if you like, the more technical title of Winehog CTO (Chief Tasting Officer) ☺️
I have already tasted his 2019s a couple of times, initially just a few, but now more seriously. Given the lockdown, I feel the need to express some feelings about the 2019s. So here we go.
The style and impression of the white 2019s
Let’s be clear: The 2019 whites are magnificent, with a hedonistic glow and energy that doesn’t resemble any other recent vintage.
Yes, the white – as well as the red – 2019s are somewhat on the warm side, but strangely they have retained their tension, energy, and vibrancy to an unexpected degree. They are vivid, and many of the best wines are embraceably delightful even in strict COVID times: adorable, lovable, and tremendously lively; vins d’émotion with a big smile.
Thibault Morey has really nailed his 2019s, and while they do have a slightly warm note, they also have an organic, vivid tone, with a slight impression of sweet/sour orange – the good freshness of the Trovita orange and the sweet hint of Citrus Unshiu or if you like a not-too-ripe Kiyomi mandarin (Mikan) – sorry if my Japanese is a bit rusty.
This is important: Most of the good 2019s I have tasted have this energetic and fresh citrus note – orange/citrus – with a hint of sweeter mandarin, yet still with great energy and vibrant delicacy.
I see this common characteristic in the whites, but I see a different one in the 2019 reds, where cloudberry seems to have the same vivacious, refreshing effect on the wines. It can be simply magical.
There is a strong vintage signature in 2019. Yet it does not block or take away the vineyard or terroir expressions. Indeed, it almost enhances them, along with their minerality, in a playful and charming way.
To the detailed impressions
As I hope the world will have returned to near normal, and that we will all be well and moving again, I want to save the final evaluation of the Morey-Coffinet 2019s until after a final tasting this fall. But why not give a preview today?
I have tasted some of the white 2019s from cask a few times. These notes are from a tasting in March.
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Bourgogne Blanc 2019
The Bourgogne Blanc is a beautiful expression of the vintage. It’s forward, vivid, and fresh, with citrus-infused minerality and a hint of sweet/sour orange to spice up the palate. Its hedonism expresses itself well beyond its level; delightful. This could keep a bit, but probably not in my cellar.
(Drink From 2021) – Very Good – (87-88p) – tasted 10/03/2020 –
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Saint-Romain Sous le Chateau 2019
The Saint-Romain Sous le Chateau is more focused than the 2018, with the vivid 2019 fruit playfully expressing this fine terroir. The slightly generous, mineral note of the Saint-Romain is really enjoyable with the citric boost of the 2019 vintage. The drinking window is difficult; it will keep, but also drinks well young.
(Drink From 2021) – Good++ – (87-88p) – tasted 10/03/2020 –
Domaine Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet 2019
The Chassagne village 2019 is clearly a step up from the 2018 with its vivacious minerality and acidity. The acidity is surprising in the 2019 vintage, as is the textural freshness, with the citrus notes giving the wine a tremendous playful liveliness. Classic Chassagne – with a boost from the 2019 joie de vivre
(Drink From 2025) – Very Good – (89-90p) – tasted 10/03/2020 –
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