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Visit Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, tasting of the 2016s

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I was very impressed when I tasted the 2015s from Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux in January 2017. I was therefor eager to get back to taste the 2016s to see if Charles Lachaux has progressed further.

At my last visit Charles Lachaux eagerly began to explain about the changes they have made at the estate in recent vintages. Explained about less use of new oak, less extraction and furthermore the introduction of a quite high percentage of whole cluster grapes in the wines.

For the village wines only 15% new oak is used, around 20% is used for the 1er crus and for the Grand Crus only 30% … so quite moderate use of oak compared to the wines made earlier. For the top wines 100% whole cluster are used – this apply to Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Corvées Pagets, Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, Aux Reignots, Echezeaux, Latriciere-Chambertin and Romanée Saint-Vivant.

So in fact this is a completely new style of wines – and I was very pleased to see this continued in the 2016 vintage.

To go back – changes began in the 2013 vintage when Charles took over, but was so to speak fully implemented in 2015 when most of the major details were in place. To be honest this was a big change and it was not possible to get all organised within one year.

The style was pretty much in place with the 2014 vintage – have tasted quite a few of those – and the details seemed more in place with the 2015s – but what about the 2016s?

The cooler 2016s .. vs. the 2015s

It was a very hot day in Beaune – around 38 celsius – way more than I need – and I was therefore happy to taste the 2016s from cask in the cool cellar.

Charles Lachaux seems very clear and focused in what he is doing – and this certainly corresponded well with the 2016s he has produced. Style wise it’s a cooler year offering a more classic Burgundian balance than the generously rich and slightly decadent 2015s. The 2016s offer a more delicate balance and energy it seems – at this stage – but do not quite match the quite abundant fruit found in the 2015s.

I think Charles has refined the style and detail in the wines even further since the 2015 vintage – i.e. improved the vinification and presumably also the viticulture in the 2016s vintage – and the question was therefore if they could challenge the 2015s – or if the mighty 2015s would prevail.

In the end it’s not a contest or a clash between vintages – but hopefully a friendly banter where the two vintages are showing of their different virtues.

As with other estates the April 2016 frost did quite severe damage at Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, some places more so than others. In some cases the low yield seems to offer more intensity and concentration in the wines – not meaning the sort of concentration obtained by extraction or technical solutions – this a natural concentration of the grapes in the vineyards.



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Cheers
Steen Öhman