Scheduling has been difficult during the pandemic, and while one still has to pay attention to the state of the national health, I am slowly but surely getting back to normal.
I missed out on the 2019s from Amélie Berthaut, although I did sample some with friends. And I’m also a bit late to the 2020s.
Luckily, Amélie was gracious, and served a selection of both the 2020s and the 2021s for good measure, bringing the Winehog back up to speed (Warning: Do not cross the road if I am up to speed).
A bit about Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet
Amélie Berthaut has taken over the vineyards of Domaine Berthaut in Fixin from her father’s side, and two-thirds of her mother’s family’s vineyards from Domaine Gerbet in Vosne-Romanée. Additionally, she still rents some vines in Gevrey-Chambertin from the Mercier family (Domaine des Chezeaux). Overall, she’s in charge of 18 ha, a sizeable estate.
Nicolas Faure, Amélie’s husband, works as vineyard manager at Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet, so a top team is in place to produce great wines.
These are hard-working people, and the dedication is paying off, in lovely and ever-improving wines.
Notes from tasting the 2020s
Amélie has done very well in 2020, avoiding the darker, more extracted wines in favour of those showing the fruity and elegant side of the vintage. Another step on her journey is that whole-cluster inclusion has gradually been increased; hence the 2020s are able to hide some of their inherent seriousness.
The 2020 wines are another big leap forward for Amélie, and while the wines are great, I feel there is yet more in store for us – she has just begun the journey. She’s definitely a vigneronne to follow in the years to come.
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Hautes Côte de Nuits 2020
The Hautes Côte de Nuits is close to home for Amélie Berthaut, as she lived in Vosne as a child. The vineyards are in the hills behind Vosne-Romanée, and make no mistake: This rocky area moving west from Vosne-Romanée into the Hautes Côtes and the village of Concoeur produces wines that are, for this level, serious, dark, intense, and well balanced. This one is both juicy and lively.
(Drink From 2022) – Very Good (87p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin Les Crais 2020
This is one of my favourite wines from Fixin – and also from Berthaut-Gerbet. The 30% whole-cluster inclusion really suits this cuvée (and Fixin generally), as it opens up the bouquet and adds to the wine’s silkiness. It’s a bit more serious than the decadent 2019, but still maintains the whole-cluster character. (See more background on Les Crais.)
(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (89p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin En Combe de Roy 2020
The Combe de Roy got a bump-up in whole-cluster inclusion, to 60% in 2020. This gives the wine a fine, organic feeling with quite a floral expression. I like this in Fixin, and it lightens the slight austerity one can sometimes find in these wines, especially in years like 2020. The nose is expressive and generous, with plenty of vivid fruit. This is a great Fixin, adding a layer of complexity to the hedonistic Crais.
(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (88-89p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –
Domaine Berthaut-Gerbet Fixin Hervelets 2020
I rarely taste the Fixin Hervelets, which is located just next to Arvelets. The Hervelets 2020 here is a delightful beauty whose nose explodes with white and pink roses. This is very lively, with a sensuality rarely tasted in a Fixin. I adore it!
(Drink From 2027) – Very Good (88-90p) – Tasted 04/07/2022 –
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