Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont is one of my fixed annual visits, as I like the estate wines and the owner Axelle, who has always welcomed The Winehog even when Winehogs was unknown among the Burgundian fauna.
On the program, this time was tasting the 2019s, and a quick sample of a few other wines from 2018 and 2017.
A bit of background on Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont
Some readers don’t know this estate, but you should. So I will repeat last year’s introduction to give you a feeling for the domaine.
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont is a relatively small estate originating from Nuits-Saint-Georges. It farms 6 hectares in total, located mainly in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation, but also with plots in Vosne-Romanée and Vergy.
The domaine has family links with the Machard de Gramont estate in Premeaux and the Chantal Lescure estate in Nuits-Saint-Georges. It was established in 1983 by Bertrand Machard de Gramont (Axelle’s father) when his family estate was divided into three parts. Bertrand had until then worked at the family estate after a stay at Domaine de Vogüé in Chambolle-Musigny, presumably working under Alain Roumier, the old regisseur there.
Axelle Machard de Gramont returned to Burgundy to take on the vigneronne challenge in 2004. She is now running the estate, with support from her dad.
What’s new, you ask? An important change in elevage
Axelle has made some changes to the vinification – or rather the elevage, as she has reduced the time in oak barrels and instead continues the elevage in stainless steel tanks. Timing-wise, her wines spend 12-14 months in cask and then an additional six months in tank.
This does give a changed character to the wines: They appear more energetic and forwardly fruity. This technique was applied to both the 2018s and 2019s, which were just completing their elevage in tank when I visited.
These are not groundbreaking changes, but the wines have benefitted, showing what seems a livelier mid-palate. This plays well into the otherwise organic style and image of the estate.
Put another way, the wines seem more youthful and forward style-wise, and this suits them. It is noticeable with the 2018s – quite impressively – and with the 2019s in tank.
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont – the 2019s
All the 2019s were showing very well at this stage; all were tasted from tank awaiting bottling. The change in the elevage has given the wines a more extroverted and forward expression, and they all show the same charming, slightly sensual fruit notes, with hints of amaretto cherries and occasionally some cloudberries with a sweet lush note.
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Bourgogne Rouge Les Grands Chaillots 2019
The Bourgogne Rouge is made from a plot in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation below the road and Chaillots. Please note: This is not a village, it’s a regional wine. That said, it is definitely intense and expressive in the 2019 vintage, and although not all nuances are showing in this entry-level wine, the style is apparent here – a lovely wine.
(Drink from 2021) – Good – Tasted 02/04/2021 –
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots 2019
A signature wine for this estate, from the terraces that can be seen from the RD974 between NSG and Premeaux (see photo below). The Terrasses 2019 is forward and has some very fine floral/cherry notes, lovely organic lightness, and delicate notes of fruit. Not quite the depth of the Vallerots, but still a charming, delicate presence. The amaretto cherries are really showing their true colours.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good – (88p) – Tasted 02/04/2021 –
Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vallerots 2019
Les Vallerots is, as always, a step up in concentration and depth. But this year the vivacious bouquet of cherries and the effortless light-footedness of the palate is at least equal to that of the terraces. This is a delightful wine, airy and open-hearted, and showing such sensual cherry aromas. What a treat.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good – (89p) – Tasted 02/04/2021 –
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Vosne-Romanée 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Aux Allots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Les Vallerots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Nuits-St-Georges Les Terrasses de Vallerots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Bourgogne Grands Chaillots 2015 July 23, 2017
- Domaine Bertrand Machard de Gramont, Aligote 2015 July 23, 2017
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