I have known Benjamin Leroux almost since he started at Domaine Comte d’Armand in Pommard back in 1999 – i.e. some 20 years. I have perhaps not always fully appreciated his wines, but in recent years the style and quality have grown on me.
And now I find myself really enjoying Ben’s wines; especially the whites, which are truly delightful.
- Visit to Benjamin Leroux – Tasting the 2020 Reds
- Visit to Benjamin Leroux – Tasting the 2020 Whites
- Benjamin Leroux, Echezeaux 2014
So let’s look at his white 2020s; his magnificent white 2020s!
Benjamin Leroux produces many wines, and therefore there was not time – or should I say personal capacity – to taste them all.
I normally have a limit of 30 wines at one tasting, as this stretches my palate’s ability. Some tasters can taste more (good for them), but for me, it becomes too much when we reach 40 or 50 wines – or even more. So no more than 30, please.
All the wines below are barrel samples, as Benjamin started bottling in early April, and the tasting was performed on April 6.
Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Blanc 2020
The Bourgogne Blanc is a textbook 2020: intense, balanced, cool for the vintage, and with delightful drinkability. It’s mainly from the Meursault area and this shows, with a nice rounded feel. A big cuvee (15,000 bottles in a good year), this is impressive quality for production of this quantity. No new oak here.
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ – (87p) –
Benjamin Leroux Auxey-Duresses 2020
The Auxey-Duresses is a mineral, smoky wine with tremendous energy and stony oomph. It’s quite delicate, with an elegant mouthfeel. A delightful glass, with the 2020 vintage offering perfect support.
(Drink from 2022) – Very Good – (88-89p) –
Benjamin Leroux Saint-Romain Sous le Chateau 2020
The Sous le Chateau is quite a beauty, with all the balance of the 2020 vintage. It is elegant, rich, and velvety, with a balancing note of reduction. This has an effortlessness, presumably due to the relatively light sulphuring Ben Leroux gives his wines. Diam and screwcaps do give new possibilities in a world of quicker, earlier consumption. When wines are consumed young, they should ideally accommodate less sulphur.
(Drink from 2029) – Very Good – (88-89p) –
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