A beautiful day in Pommard showing both new initiatives and new people … but with a strong bond to history.
Coming from a view on Domaine de la Commaraine .. vineyard and future hotel … I turn left down the road to the fine old Clerget estate – to see one of my favorite new generation vignerons Thibaud Clerget.
I first visited Thibaud in 2016, tasting the 2015 vintage – so quite a lot of wines have already passed under the bridges of Pommard – and I am pleased to report that Thibaud is still improving – and the 2019s are in my view the best vintage made here by some margin.
The vintage is fabulous … and Thibaud has the talent to transform grapes into magnificent wine that expresses the liveliness of the 2019 vintage … what can I say; Chapeau Mr. Clerget – you do Pommard and Volany honor.
Hot years require experience and practice
While the grapes in hot years are often riper, the vinification is not necessarily easier, as maintaining lightness and the coolness during the harvest and vinification requires experience.
I was therefore slightly surprised to see the fine results from Thibaud Clerget in his first vintage: 2015. Yes, some of the wines were perhaps a bit on the hot side, but in general, the balance was there.
Tasting the 2016s and 2017s revealed, however, quite some improvements compared to the 2015s – and showed the potential of this fine estate, and the talent of Thibaud.
Then we had the 2018s and despite the fact that 2018 was a hotter vintage than 2015, the 2018 wines were more vivid and fresh, showing finer details and energy.
The 2019 have even more to offer … an inherent energy and depth .. a complexity that runs through the wines like a magic source of energy and hedonistic pleasure. Thibaud has cherished this quality and embraced the qualities of 2019s
To the cellar … if we can get past the man at the door!
The 2019s from Domaine Y. Clerget – Tasting on July 8th, 2020
The first thing one notices is the more energetic expression with red and orange fruit to boost the vivacious and generous character of the vintage. It is unlike the previous vintages at this estate … it is unique … like the 2019s in many estates.
Domaine Y. Clerget, Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2019
The Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a blast. Only 50% of the normal harvest. Offer tremendous energy, depth, and concentration for the level. Has a lively and effortless expression taking the wines here to another level … this is delightful.
(Drink from 2021) – Very Good (87p) – Tasted 08/07/2020 –
Domaine Y. Clerget, Volnay 2019
The Volnay is equally brilliant: sensual cloudberries and lingonberries are integrated with more regular berries – red and dark and cherries. Very lively and vivacious with a tremendous drinkability and sensuality – the charming energetic notes do take this well beyond a regular Volnay … adorable.
(Drink from 2027) – Very Good (89-90p) – Tasted 08/07/2020 –
Domaine Y. Clerget, Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle 2019
The Volnay Carelle sous la Chapelle is as always a further step up in intensity and energy. This is a vivid and very energetic wine – with the nordic berries stepping up the energy level – with a considerable sexiness and delicacy. Quite a substantial wine yet it’s lightfooted and refined … a hedonistic treat.
(Drink from 2029) – Fine+ (91 – 93p) – Tasted 08/07/2020 –
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