Back in the Drouhin cellars to taste a selection of the reds – again with the charming and very competent Veronique Drouhin.
This year I had the opportunity to taste some of the 2017s from Maison Joseph Drouhin from cask with winemaker Veronique Drouhin – the notes from the whites can be found here .. and an opportunity to get an early view from one of the large houses in a vintage like 2017 … is very useful to be honest, as one get another perspective on the vintage.
The red 2017s at Maison Joseph Drouhin
I had the opportunity to taste a fine selection of the red 2017s from Drouhin – far from all – but some highlights from the large lineup of wines.
To the reds 2017s!
The reds from Drouhin are pretty, airy and elegant – a bit on the charming, rich and generous side – with the vintage being a bit solaire …
The red I tasted at Drouhin all had a fine balance and freshness – and not showing effects of high yields, although it’s a vintage that are lighter than 2015 and 2016.
The 2017 dilemma and paradox – seen in general
The 2017 vintage turned out to be generous – producing very good yields and in fact the problem was in some cases too high yields giving diluted and watery wines.
After 2016 a lot of growers were very keen to harvest a good and ample yield, and was therefore in some cases reluctant to prune too hard to keep yields low, and kept the harvest ample … until the end or until a green harvest. After the frost in 2016 the vigor in the vineyards could in some cases produce more than 80 hl/ha and in some cases beyond the level for producing quality wine.
For the quality an early adjustment of the crop would have been the best, but in some cases this was not done – due to the risk of getting another year with low yields. This dilemma was also a challenge for the negociants, as some of the grapes they were offered were harvested at too high yields.
Drouhin saw these problems and had to disregard some of these diluted grapes, whereas they had the opportunity to control the yields with the grapes from their own vineyards.
To be honest it was a hard dilemma – and it was understandable if a producer would go for a high yield, if they lost 90% during the frost in the 2016 vintage.
The problem appear to have been worst with the reds, as the Chardonnays coped better with the higher yields and kept a better balance and aromatic intensity even at higher yields.
Bottom line – Drouhin have done well in 2017 and the wines I tasted with Veronique all had sufficient concentration and intensity.
The red 2017s from Joseph Drouhin
I had the opportunity to taste the following reds with Veronique Drouhin in May 2018:
- Joseph Drouhin, Rully 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Clos de Mouches Rouge 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetieres 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Greves 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Musigny 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Grands Echezeaux 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Griotte-Chambertin 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Bonnes-Mares 2017
- Joseph Drouhin, Chambertin Clos de Beze 2017
Joseph Drouhin, Rully 2017
The Drouhin Rully 2017 is a pretty entry level wine – lovely red fruit, good concentration however on the lighter side, a charming effort. Lovely fruity note .. Rully often seems to deliver lovely quality these days.
(Drink From 2019) – Good – (85 – 87p) – cask sample tasted 29/05/2018
Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Clos de Mouches Rouge 2017
Beaune Clos de Mouches Rouge – quite a step up here. A very pretty wine with plenty of fruit on the palate – delicate and silky with a quite intense mid-palate fruit. The nose offer lovely charming variations of red cherries – intense deep fruit .. this will be a lovely wine.
(Drink From 2025) – Fine – (90 – 92p) – cask sample tasted 29/05/2018
Joseph Drouhin, Gevrey-Chambertin Cazetieres 2017
Delicate nose – forward and mineral, showing a lovely stony classic Cazetieres palate. On the palate fine depth and and length – with a lovely forward fruit.
(Drink From 2025) – Fine+ – (91 – 92p) – cask sample tasted 29/05/2018
Joseph Drouhin, Beaune Greves 2017
The Beaune Greves is a more serious wine than the Beaune Clos de Mouches – darker, deeper without being overtly serious. Oak a bit forward currently – very vibrant fruit, with plenty of energy. A lovely Beaune in the making.
(Drink From 2027) – Fine – (90 – 91p) – cask sample, tasted 29/05/2018
Joseph Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 2017
The Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses is another step up – especially in refinement. A pretty Les Amoureuses – with layers of red fruit covering the limestone minerality. On the palate silky and refined – medium weight – what can I say … a lovely wine.
(Drink From 2026) – Very Fine – (92 – 94p) – cask sample, tasted 29/05/2018
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Maison Joseph Drouhin, Musigny 1993 March 30, 2018
- Maison Joseph Drouhin, Le Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 2015 March 30, 2018
- Maison Joseph Drouhin, Musigny 2015 March 30, 2018
- Maison Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot 2014 May 25, 2016
- Maison Joseph Drouhin, Echezeaux 2014 May 25, 2016
- Joseph Drouhin, Meursault Goutte d’Or 1964 December 23, 2014
- Joseph Drouhin, Pommard Les Boucherottes 1962 December 21, 2014
- Joseph Drouhin, Vosne Romanee Petits-Monts 2007 October 9, 2011
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