On my trip to Burgundy in March, before you-know-what, I had the pleasure of visiting Domaine Moron-Garcia in Nuits-Saint-Georges to taste the 2019 wines from cask.
Let me just say, the 2019s from Matthieu Moron and Pierre-Oliver Garcia are truly lovely: magnificent, refined, delicate and hedonistic.
The bouquets are currently out of this world: refined and delicate. The fruit and the vivid freshness are what I and the guys at Moron-Garcia would call the definition of vins d’émotion.
With such vivid, detailed nuances and fragrances – unique variations on red roses – the 2019s are without doubt magnificent delights to behold. This is possibly the best vintage I have tasted from this producer.
Wine and people – a bit about the Moron-Garcia team
Domaine Moron-Garcia is the brainchild of Matthieu Moron and Pierre-Olivier Garcia, who are making fabulous wines in a modest-sized cellar in Nuits-Saint-Georges. The first vintage for the estate was 2016.
This is not your everyday operation, as some of the wines are made in such a time-consuming, but also highly quality-oriented, way that it can best be described as borderline crazy or, more generously, an extreme focus on quality and detail.
I named Domaine Moron-Garcia “Flavour of the Year 2018” for its delightful wines from the 2017 vintage. That award was motivated by the fact that Moron-Garcia produces vivid, energetic wines with character and substance. The wines have lovely complexity and a style unique to the estate, and they are made with refinement and lovely expressions of terroir. The wines have real substance, and more true weight and depth than many current Burgundies.
And let me be 100% clear: The 2019s are better – quite a lot better. I am thus proud and delighted that this estate became the first winner of the “Flavour of the Year” award. My judgement was clearly not mistaken.
Once more; a bit about baie-par-baie
Moron and Garcia employ a special technique whereby some of the berries in the top-end wines are hand-destemmed, grape-by-grape, to ensure whole berries for vinification. This is extremely time-consuming. They must have a lot of good friends, not to mention special dedication.
The “baie-par-baie” grapes are mixed with whole-cluster bunches and in some cases machine-destemmed berries.
Photo Domaine Moron-Garcia: baie-par-baie
The baie-par-baie method is unusual and very time-consuming. However, the resulting wines are of both high and exciting quality.
In my opinion, this technique encourages some exciting aromas (see notes below) and ensures the vivid freshness and balance not found in most wines.
The 2019 wines from Moron-Garcia
The 2019 wines are brilliant, judged at this early point of time. Their liveliness and vivid freshness, combined with great intensity and hedonistic concentration, make this a unique vintage.
Moron-Garcia has nailed most if not all of the cuvées, even though the alcohol levels here – like at most domaines – are a bit on the high side. As at many other estates, however, the alcohol is not a problem currently, and honestly I don’t see it becoming one.
The tasting showed the best side of the Moron-Garcia wines. I was simply delighted, although I know that some of the delicate notes I found here will not reappear until some years of cellaring have elapsed.
Now, to the notes!
First out was the Domaine Moron-Garcia Aligoté 2019, as usual. This is a magnificent Aligoté; tremendously lively and aromatic from very old plantings (80- to 100-year-old vines in Fixin). Better transparency than the 2018, with the lively freshness and crystalline clarity of the 2019 vintage shining through. The slight caramel/yeast note is beautifully integrated with the vivid fruit. Delicious…
(Drink from 2021) – Good (87-88p) – Tasted 11/03/2020 –
The Domaine Moron-Garcia Brouilly La Folie 2019 is from down south in Beaujolais, thus Gamay. Despite its 13.7% alcohol, it shows lovely balance. Tremendous freshness, with an almost pinotesque liveliness, generous fruit – again a hint of light caramel and fennel – and a spicy impression presumably from the lees. Very transparent, with beautiful energy.
(Drink from 2019) – Good (87-88p) – Tasted 11/03/2020 –
The Domaine Moron-Garcia Bourgogne Les Maladieres 2019 is fantastic in the current edition. The nose is brimming with crushed petals of dark red roses – crystal clear and lively. On the palate, tremendous energy and vivid nerve. Amazing complexity for a Bourgogne rouge, with a delicate yet ethereal feel. This is stunningly beautiful, and the rose notes are to “live” for. Wonderful, and a must-buy.
(Drink from 2023) – Good (88p) – Tasted 11/03/2020 –
The Côte de Nuits Villages 2019 is a refined treat after the powerful 2018. It is a delight, giving honour to this Corgoloin appellation. This is a rich effort – almost creamy, transparent black fruit infused with a sweet/sour note of cloudberries. Perfumed and very delicate for the appellation. Great to see this succeed so completely in 2019.
(Drink from 2026) – Good (88-89p) – Tasted 11/03/2020 –
The Domaine Moron-Garcia Marsannay Clos du Roy 2019 is an intense, powerful wine for this level. coming from the northern end of the appellation (Chenove). It is vividly and juicily fruity, with a deep, fine, mineral expression. The energetic and lively character of the 2019 vintage is really taking this wine to the next level. It will need some time to unfold.
(Drink from 2027) – Good (88-89p) – Tasted 11/03/2020 –
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Tasting Notes for this producer
- Domaine Moron-Garcia, Corton “Cuvée Baie par Baie” 2017 July 23, 2019
- Domaine Moron-Garcia, Beaune Les Tuvilains 2017 April 26, 2019
- Domaine Moron-Garcia, Marsannay Clos du Roy 2017 March 7, 2019
- Domaine Moron-Garcia, Bourgogne Blanc 2017 March 6, 2019
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