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Collins Corner #6 – Vosne-Romanee Haut Maizieres …

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Is the map of famous vineyards in Burgundy deceptive? My curiosity has always been aroused by the ‘unknown’ vines right next door. When you are standing in a hallowed plot, and a very short distance away is a big, old, symbolic vine that looks like it was born in another century….you can’t help but ask, “I wonder what THAT tastes like?”

The search doesn’t always produce great results, but sometimes you find some wines that consistently surprise you. You like these results disproportionately to the fame. I have a few to share, this one in Vosne.

I can hear you chuckling, “Ok, show me, as there has been more ink used to print the stories of Vosne than all the rest of Burgundy combined over the last 50 years.” Lets start with old Abbot Courtepee [circa 1700] ” Il n’y a point a Vosne de vins communs”…..there are no common wines here [Vosne]. Yes, I agree, there are some fantastic wines here. The problem for us has not been notoriety, but that few of us have the heredity to access them. {let me apologize, should you be related to the kings court or fantastic wealth, this article may be irrelevant }.

But take heart, there are wines the Abbot would approve right next door. I submit to you a vineyard that has, over the decades, given me a Kings pleasure at a citizens table. My favorite, the Vosne: ‘Haut Maizieres’. My map-search from decades ago could not help but like the neighborhood, Great religous properties North and South, sitting under first growth “Suchots” and firmly inside the ‘Grand’ cru belt.

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I may have been lucky, but the cellars of Arnoux, Prieure Roch, and Clavelier gave me my first chances to experience the wine. The wines did captivate me, and set me on a search. I had a difficult time at first, I couldn’t locate the vineyard. The first quarter of the vineyard has no vines…it is the cemetery of Vosne! Walking beyond these walls, I found my quest. To the north, the wall of Clos Vougeot, to the west, Echezeaux. A narrow band of vines between two small roads. Serious vineyards.

The wine doesn’t disappoint . It seems it was classified as premier cru until recently, I would argue that the reclassification is a gift to those that judge by the wine in the glass as opposed to the credential on the label.

If Vosne is velvet, here is a signature wine. ###

Cheers ,
C. Robert Collins

Tasting notes – Les Hautes Maizieres

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