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Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé – tasting of 2013s from Cask

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On my November visit to Burgundy I had the opportunity to visit Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé for a tasting of the 2013 vintage from cask.

The Vogüé tasting is sort of a benchmark tasting for me, as this is one of the very first estates I visited in Burgundy back in the late 1990s. It’s always a treat to taste these wines, and to hear Francois Millet explain the vintage in his own philosophical way … for me it usually set the vintage in perspective … and add to the understanding of other wines tasted.

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Overall impressions of the Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 2013s

The 2013s at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé are wines of contrast and nerve. On one side we have the fresh and vibrant 2013 acidity on the other side we have a high phenolic ripeness adding a more dark and dense side to the wines.

The combination offer energy and nerve and a quite weighty expression of fruit – they are darker both in color and aromatically than the previous vintages, and show another side of Burgundy than the forward and enchanting 2012s.

I personally find the 2013s very exiting as the drive and energy from the acidity is quite unique given the high phenolic ripeness – classic Burgundies in the making.

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Notes from the November tasting

All the wines were tasted from cask on November 4th 2014 under the guidance of winemaker Francois Millet,

Comte de Vogue, Chambolle Musigny 2013

The Chambolle village is slightly reduced and not showing the full monty currently. Color remarkably dark and dense. The nose is slightly restrained and rather dark, with dark berry fruit, black pepper. On the palate weighty and intense fruit for this level – the fruit is currently dark and slightly dense with limited expression of terroir. Summing up .. not showing on the day … but plenty of stuffing here and the fresh acidity is lurking in the background … I’m quite sure it will shape up to be a both big and very good village.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2024) – Very Good (88 – 90p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 – from cask

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Comte de Vogue, Chambolle Musigny 1er cru 2013

The Chambolle 1er cru – made from the young wines on Grand Cru Musigny – is showing much better than the village on this rainy November day. In the bouquet more red fruit – but still darker than the previous vintages – with the acidity is adding a vibrant freshness driving the minerality forward in the bouquet. On the palate lovely balance and energy … with the Musigny terroir and the crunchy 2013 acidity lifting the weighty ripe fruit into a state of vibrancy. A lovely .. but serious 1er cru in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2026) – Fine (91 – 93p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 – from cask
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Comte de Vogue, Les Amoureuses 2013

The Amoureuses 2013 is showing loads of energy and minerality. In the nose a gorgeous mix of red and dark berry fruit – pomegranate, boysenberries, dark cherries – with a lovely crisp minerality. On the palate very energetic and vibrant fruit delivered by the fresh acidity and the crunchy minerality from the Amoureuses terroir. The rather dark and slightly dense fruit of the vintage is a perfect match for the delightful Amoureuses terroir.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2028) – Very Fine (93 – 94p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 – from cask

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Comte de Vogue, Bonnes Mares 2013

The Bonnes Mares 2013 is a magnificent wine in the making. In the nose layers of dark and deep fruit with some sweet red notes infusing the darker berries – the minerality is accentuated by the fresh acidity offering even more complexity to the nose. On the palate layers of very juicy and ripe fruit – with a core of delicate sweet red fruit. Its weighty and powerful, but still very refined with the acidity adding tremendous nerve and energy to the wine. Love the complex interlinked layers of red and dark fruit – and the nervy contrast between the weighty fruit and the crunchy acidity. A truly delightful Bonnes Mares.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2030) – Outstanding (94 – 96p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 – from cask

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Comte de Vogue, Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2013

The Musigny Vieilles Vignes is always a step up from the Bonnes Mares … but the magnificent Bonnes Mares is closer than normally in 2013. In the bouquet a lovely play between minerality, red and dark fruit … the expression of fruit is energetic, deep and pure … spiced by the powerful minerality. On the palate more mineralic power than the Bonnes Mares – the fruit is lighter in color with some red coulis elements. Love the slightly rebellious acidity and the powerful minerality .. loads of energy and power here. A big Musigny in the making.

20120309-125513.jpg(Drink from 2032) – Outstanding+ (95 – 97p) – Tasted 04/11/2014 – from cask
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Tasting Notes for this producer

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The principle with vins d’emotion is that they bring you extraordinary joy and hedonistic thrills.  A wine can be great, and at the same time not quite be a vin d’emotion.

All wines that evoke these emotional responses deserve a recommendation, and I have therefore created four levels of emotion recommendation: from the true and rare vin d’émotion to wines with some emotional potential.

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Read the original Vin d’émotion article here ..

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